Home Heating using paraffin Inverter heaters

First of all, if you are actively considering buying a Paraffin Inverter Heater, but don’t want to spend the usual £250 – £300, then I have created a frequently updated page showing the lowest prices on Inverter Heaters.

I know that when you read the title of this blog –  Home Heating using paraffin Inverter heaters, the word ‘paraffin’ alone, will conjure up those childhood memories of Grandad’s ancient paraffin heater running during long cold winters in his greenhouse and the lingering smell of paraffin which always used to follow, however before you hit the back button and leave, the paraffin inverter  heaters I will be referring to here, are top of the range, ultra modern safe paraffin heaters designed and manufactured in Japan and of which are even far more safer to use than portable gas heaters using calor gas bottles, and open fires.

A UK Energy Crisis is looming and Gas and Electricity prices are rocketing. These Heaters are now likely to save you more money than ever

Many of those who are reading “Home Heating using paraffin Inverter heaters”, may be here out of pure curiosity, but those open minded individuals and savvy consumers who want to save money on their energy bills and who continue to read, will probably find that it actually saves them considerable amounts of money by switching over to paraffin heating for their domestic requirements, especially those trying to heat poorly insulated old buildings and those who are suffering from Storage Heater blues or indeed, are looking to substitute any form of expensive electric heating with something much more affordable.

For those readers with Gas central heating, lucky you!. This article is unlikely to be of any interest to you as you already have one of the cheapest forms of heating known to man – Mains Gas. However even if you have central heating, you may need additional heating in an extension, conservatory, loft conversion, caravan, garage or outbuilding where the cost of extending the gas central heating may not be economically viable or possible, so stick around, as paraffin heating may still also be of interest to you, and will work out far cheaper than installing extra radiators or the huge expense of running an electric panel heater, fan heater or oil filled radiator.

Using a Paraffin Inverter Heater can also work out a lot cheaper than using a traditional gas fire to heat a room. Despite the low cost of natural gas a lot of Gas Fires, even modern ones, can be extremely inefficient, often consuming as much as 6.4kw worth of gas just to produce 4kw worth of heat into a room, and some of the “living flame” gas fires are even worse than this, as the majority of produced heat escapes from the flue or up the Chimney.

Zibro LC30E
3kw output
Timer and Temp controls
Fan Assisted
£162.92 + Delivery

Kero 241 Paraffin Radiant Heater. 2.2KW Output
£139.99 + Delivery

5006 Inverter Heater
Massive 3.2kw Output
UK Stock
£315.00 Inc Delivery

So whilst Gas is one of the cheapest forms of heat, this usually only applies to very high efficiency Central Heating system boilers built in the last five years or so, and when compared to a Gas Fire, the increased efficiency of 99% offered by an Inverter Heater, compared to the 50% – 60% offered by an older gas fire, the small extra cost of paraffin or heating oil is more than offset by the wasteful, inefficient nature of the gas fire, making the Inverter Heater the cheaper form of heating one living room or an open plan area.

Home Heating using paraffin Inverter heaters will be of  interest to those in rural or remote locations who don’t have access to mains gas,  or households who currently use oil fired or LPG based heating systems, but the biggest savings by switching over to heating a home with a paraffin inverter heater will be to those using Economy 7 storage heating, Electric Central Heating or any form of electric heating appliances for their main heating, and this is where 30% – 70% savings can easily be made.

Home Heating using paraffin Inverter heaters

This is where my own experiences begin, I have a rural property which is outside of the mains gas area and doesn’t have any form of central heating, the property is insulated and has double glazing, however it suffers from one handicap, the fact that it has electric storage heaters. Those who have storage heaters will already know, that come winter they are extremely inflexible, increasingly expensive to run and by around 5pm or 6pm they have exhausted all of their useful heat and once night falls, the room rapidly becomes cold. Electricity is supplied on Economy 7  or Economy 10 tariffs, and although these tariff’s give you seven to ten hours of cheap overnight electricity, the cost of the Electricity during the normal day (peak) periods is significantly more expensive than on a standard non economy 7 tariff. Up to three or four times higher per unit in fact!.

This means, that when the Economy 7 storage heaters inevitably run out of heat, by around late afternoon or early evening, or the weather turns unexpectedly chilly some other form of ‘top up’ heating is required which is often also electrically powered, such as a convector heater, panel heater, fan heater or oil filled radiator.

These types of heating appliance use extremely large amounts of Electricity and after several hours of use can soon work out to be prohibitively expensive, which then largely negates all of the savings made the previous night during the E7 / E10 period.

Consuming electricity outside of the overnight off peak period rapidly becomes expensive. This is because E7 customers with storage heaters are openly penalised for their cheaper overnight rates and will pay double or even treble the cost for their daytime Electricity compared to non E7 electricity customers enjoying standard single rate tariffs.

The electricity companies know all about the limited effectiveness of storage heaters and because of these limitations know that there is a very real possibility that the majority of their E7 customers will require some form of top up heating at some point during the evening especially during the coldest mid winter months, at the times when the most expensive ‘peak rate’ periods will apply, and so are laughing all of the way to the bank.

In other words they give a discounted overnight during E7 / E10 off peak period which looks very generous on the surface, but they then quickly snatch most of that generosity back by charging very expensive daytime ‘peak’ rates at double or treble the unit cost compared to non E7 customers on standard single rates. In addition, the discounted Off Peak rate of the Economy 7 period is also rapidly increasing, back in 2011 I was paying less than 5p per kw/h, in 2013 I am now paying 6.2p per kw/h (and some customers are paying as much as 8p per kw/h) – all far more expensive than mains Gas customers who pay as little as 3.3p per kw/h all day long.

Electricity prices continue to rise, as do oil prices and LPG, minimum deliveries for both heating oil and LPG may also make fitting central heating boilers powered by these fuels unattractive. Fitting a wood burner is an ideal way of mitigating the ever increasing cost of Electricity, however this is not always suitable in some properties, and also for those living in flats, smoke free zones or who are renting their property from a landlord.

During winter 2010, I was often paying over £100 a month in Electricity costs to heat a 1 bedroom flat, based on running 3 large storage heaters, which was around double the cost of heating a Three or Four Bedroom house with Gas Central Heating. When I arrived home from work late in the evenings I wasn’t feeling any real benefit from it either as the Storage Heaters had exhausted most of their stored heat, and during the coldest winter months I still needed to plug in additional heating for several hours in the Evening just to be warm when reading or watching the TV.

A quick calculation soon revealed the painful truth, in that for every hour I was running a 2.4 kw Convector Heater for top up heat during the Evenings, I was mitigating around 3 hours worth of Economy 7 cheaper rate electricity!!, because my Electricity cost during the peak period was 3 times the cost of off peak, so it didn’t take long for the Electricity company to claw back, nearly all of saving I had made on the discounted electricity which it had sold to me overnight, whenever I needed to run additional heating during the following Evening, which in Winter means this was happening almost 7 days a week.

Additional energy price hikes had also been announced for the second time in a year, and I could see the day when paying £150 a month in Electricity would become a reality. I began looking for alternatives to Electric heating, and stumbled across a forum for Boat Owners and static caravan dwellers, who had seemed to have found a solution.

I was introduced to a modern day, Japanese manufactured indoor Paraffin heater. This was no ordinary basic old fashioned paraffin heater like the ones my grandparents had once had heating their outside toilet , but a sleek, safe and odourless fan assisted paraffin heater, with a kw heat output exceeding that of most standard Electric heaters and being fan assisted it was also capable of heating a living area very quickly, and at a fraction of the cost of an Electric equivalent!.

I researched these paraffin inverter heaters further and traced their roots back to Japan, where central heating systems are rare, and where most Japanese families still heat their homes using these clever, safe and portable  Paraffin / Kerosene fueled modern space heaters. They are also used routinely in Southern France & Italy, where they are so popular that dedicated pre-packaged containers of  kero fuel are sold in most hypermarkets and DIY Stores.

At first my prejudice about paraffin heaters and memories of the lingering small of paraffin came back to haunt me, but I decided that the Japanese were a clever race, and had developed many modern designs as far as appliances and domestic equipment was concerned and as a Country they certainly wouldn’t be using Paraffin Heaters as their preferred, daily form of heating if it was dangerous or ineffective. Npower had also just written to me, announcing their latest price rises (for the fourth year running), I decided that anything to save me money over Npower’s E7 overpriced daytime rates was worth a go.

The manufacturer claimed that because their heaters had no external flue there was no heat to escape which meant that their paraffin heater was 99% efficient in turning fuel into heat, which was actually much more efficient than even a Gas Powered ‘A’ rated central heating boiler, and virtually the same 100% efficiency offered by direct Electric Heating. Unlike earlier paraffin heaters and Gas Calor heaters, this paraffin heater produced no obvious room condensation and had many electronic safety features which made it safe to use an everyday household form of heating, I was now convinced, so I ordered one.

The £250 that I paid for the Corona Inverter Paraffin Heater back in 2010, seemed a lot to pay for a portable space heater, especially one powered by paraffin, but it turned out to be an astute decision which in turn, eventually paid for itself over just one average winter, recouped entirely from the savings on Electricity.

The Paraffin Inverter Heater really gave me the best of both worlds, I could reduce my reliance on (and use of) the expensive to run storage heaters, and then instead of using the Convector Heaters on an overly expensive peak rate electricity tariff to top up the heat when I got in from work, I simply fired up the Corona Inverter Heater to quickly and efficiently deliver heat whenever I was at home, at around a third of the cost of peak rate Electricity.

I read that standard Paraffin / Kerosene fuel burning at almost 100% efficiency will produce at least 10kw of heat from every litre of Paraffin / Kerosene it consumes. So lets do the maths, and let me actually prove the savings to you from my own personal experiences.

I currently buy Electricity during the ‘peak’ periods from Npower, at around 21 pence per KW/H.

I originally bought Paraffin from a local allotment society for 70p a litre. I get 10kw worth of heat from each litre burned which brings down the price for heating to 7p per KW/H. (I now pay 5.3p per KW using standard home heating oil kerosene @ 53p a litre but i’ll get to that later)

My Corona Paraffin Inverter heater produces 3200 watts of heat, or 3.2kw so on its full setting, for one hours worth of use it costs 3.2 x 0.07p to run = 22.4 pence per hour to give out 3.2kw worth of heat at almost 100% efficiency, enough to heat a fairly large living room or open plan lounge-diner very quickly.

To run an Electric Convector Heater rated at 3000 watts  (3.0KW) it would consume 3 electricity units every hour, which would cost 3 x £0.21 units per hour to run – so £0.63 per hour to run a single 3kw heater when using peak rate electricity. By using a 3.2kw Corona Paraffin Inverter heater instead of a 3KW convector heater,  actually saves me £0.406 per hour in real terms – cold hard cash!, plus I get an extra 200 watt worth of heat from the 3.2kw Paraffin heater over the 3kw convector, which isn’t a lot, but does add up over a period of running during a typical evening (an extra 1kw worth of heat for every 5 hours it runs to be exact)

So by using the Corona Paraffin Heater during the Evenings for an average of just six hours at a time, saves me £2.43 in heating costs per night, just by changing the way that I heat the room and the fuel that I use to do it, and trading Peak Rate Electricity back to good old fashioned Paraffin, burned in a state of the art heater.

Couple this with an average of 10 hours worth of use per day (when home at the weekends) and that saving adds up to £4.06 per weekend day, so the potential saving by using paraffin adds upto £20.27 per week (£2.43 x 5 nights + 2x £4.06 per day at the weekends) – that’s an amazing £81.08 per MONTH in savings from my own usage pattern, just by turning the convector heater off and the paraffin heater on, and avoiding the use of expensive Electric heating.

The figures speak volumes, and in just three winter of average use during the Winter, i’ve effectively recouped the cost of purchasing the inverter heater and beyond that point, the savings are in my pocket for many winters to come!, and the money is far better in my pocket than those pockets belonging to the shareholders of the expensive utility companies!.

So there you go – what more can I say? other than that I paid off the original outlay for my paraffin heater during the first half of its first winter, meaning that the savings that I am getting at the moment – upto £81.08 a MONTH are now mine to keep as the paraffin inverter heater is still going strong, and still saving me money, and the room is lovely and warm, I have made no other sacrifices to do it nor had to turn down any thermostats or put on extra layers of clothing or huddle under throws!. As a result of switching to an Inverter Heater my £100+ monthly winter E7 Electricity bill is a nightmare from the past and has dropped to a more manageable, summer-like £25 – £30 a month, now i’m no longer using it for heating. In fact so sudden was my drop off in usage during the first few months that they sent out somebody to check my meter!!.

It is even possible to obtain paraffin far cheaper than the initial 70p / litre example I gave and so stretch those savings further, but i’ll move onto that shortly. Also bear in mind that the savings and comparisons I made are for one heater in a small flat, if you have the requirement for more than one electric heater, and replace it with paraffin the total savings will increase even further by using a Paraffin Inverter Heater, in place of each Electric Heater, noting that the heaters are also portable and easily carried by one person, so it is possible to move it from room to room, living room to bedroom or even to the shed or caravan, and these heaters are also ideal for heating a conservatory, where Electricity has previously been the only option.

These heaters are also ideal for Tenants, as they are portable appliances and require no expensive installation or landlord permission, simply unplug them and take them with you to your next property, just the same as you would with any portable Fan or Convector heater.

Lets examine the features of the Corona Paraffin Inverter heater.

Safe and Reliable, being 99% efficient and having no external flue or chimney means 99% of the heat produced from the fuel actually goes into the room, not out of the flue. Far more efficient than portable gas heaters, LPG fired central heating, older gas fires  and virtually just as efficient as more expensive electric heating, but at 50% – 75% of the cost – FACT.

Portable – requires no installation or outside flue, just fill with paraffin / kerosene and plug it in to a standard mains socket

Has flame failure sensors, CO2 detection and switches off if it falls over or is knocked, making it far more safer to use in the house, shop, workshop or office than conventional Gas Bottle heaters, open fires or newer Bio Ethanol fires.

Produces little, if any condensation, unlike earlier paraffin heaters and gas bottle calor heaters

Little servicing or annual maintenance, and no service contracts, safety checks or repair bills – just an occasional fuel filter clean.

No wicks to replace or trim (Inverter model)

Fan assisted for rapid room warm up (Electric Fan requires 22 watts of Electricity, about the same as an energy saving light bulb)

Digitally Thermostatically controlled, which switches to a paraffin saving eco mode (800w) when the room reaches the selected temperature. In Eco Mode the heater will run for an amazing 45 – 48 hours on one fill of fuel.

Has a digital timer, set it to come on after work or before you get up in the morning.

Virtually odourless in normal operation. Just a quick whiff when starting / stopping.

Fan Assisted and Radiant Versions (which require no Electricity) available

The Paraffin Inverter heater is ideal for use in Conservatories, Porches, Outbuildings, Garages, Shed’s or any location where extending central heating is too costly, its also a very viable and cheaper alternative to very expensive normal indoor Electric room heating in bedrooms, living rooms, kitchens, loft conversions etc and in these applications it does stand to save the average household anything upto 40% – 50% off the cost of standard tariff electricity and a massive 75% off the most expensive  E7 peak rate electricity tariff. In short if you are plugging in any form of Electric Heater on a regular or semi-regular basis, then replacing it with one of these inverter heaters WILL save you money – between 40% and 70% depending on your current Electricity tariff.

Finally, lets see how the cost of running the Corona Paraffin Inverter heater compares with other fuels (Updated Sept 2021)

Corona Paraffin Heater – 5.8p per KW (based on 58p / litre for small quantities of Heating Oil or Paraffin from a pump)

Corona Paraffin Heater – 4.4p per KW (based on 44p / litre for bulk purchased 28 second domestic home heating kerosene)

Average Economy 7 Daytime Rate  –  24p per KW

Average Economy 7 Off Peak Rate  – 12p per KW

Standard Electricity Rate – 20p per KW

LPG Central Heating (tank)  – 10.5p per KW

LPG Central Heating / Gas Fire (bottle) – 19p per KW

Oil Fired Central Heating – 8p per KW (factoring in boiler efficiency / Flue losses)

Mains Gas – 5p per KW

Wood Burner – 3p per KW

(example comparison rates as they stood at September 2021)

Also compare the £2500 – £6000 installation cost of installing Oil or LPG fired central heating, or the average £3000 cost of a Wood Burning Stove with the low cost of the cheapest Paraffin inverter heater. Even if you bought four Paraffin Inverter heaters for use in a four bedroom house, it would still cost well under £1000, that’s almost a sixth of the £6000 average cost of fitting a LPG based central heating system, and the savings made on the outlay will buy a lot of Fuel.

As you can see, the Corona Paraffin Heater is worth considering as a portable, money saving room heating alternative to either Economy 7 or Standard Electric Heating, as well as LPG heating. Its also ideal as temporary heating for outbuildings or for using on Boats and Static Caravans where LPG may prove very costly. It is also ideal for supplementary heating in short term rented accommodation as no flue or building modification is required and being portable you can take it with you when you move.

It is also possible to further reduce the cost of running the Paraffin Inverter Heater from 7p KW to 5p – 6p KW by switching from C1 Paraffin to Kerosene (sold as 28 second domestic Heating Oil in the UK).

First, let me state clearly that the Manufacturer of these heaters advise using only expensive prepackaged Class C1 Paraffin in these heaters, however outside of the UK, Paraffin is also routinely known as Kerosene and the fuels are virtually identical. Thus it would seem to be acceptable to burn cheaper 28 second domestic heating oil Kerosene instead of Paraffin, and stretch the savings and make it easier to obtain (Heating oil is generally more readily available than C1 Paraffin).

In the UK, “Kerosene” is known and sold as 28 second heating oil, the same heating oil that home central heating oil fired boilers use. I have been buying and using  standard 28 second heating oil in my heater frequently for over 9 years since my first purchase when this blog page was created in 2010,  with no accidents, no fires, no spillage and more importantly no obvious adverse effects to either the heater or to myself from excessive fumes / odours as have many people leaving comments on this page, however you do this in your own heater at your own risk.

By buying heating oil kerosene from a local depot reduces my cost of the fuel from 70p per litre to 53p per litre, this means that the real cost of running my Inverter heater falls even further, from 7p per KW to 5.3p per KW – making it almost as cheap as mains gas, and even less than the cost of Economy 7 overnight electricity which my (useless) storage heaters use. You could probably reduce this to below 5p if you shopped around, and had the space to store a bulk heating oil delivery.

However, once again I must stress that if you choose to use domestic heating oil in your own heater instead of premium paraffin you do so at your own risk!. If you wish to stick with the manufacturers recommendations on fuel, it is still possible to buy the recommended C1 paraffin at 70p per litre, try contacting your local allotment society, and looking in the yellow pages for local oil and fuel brokers, or if you are happy with Heating Oil instead of paraffin, simply buy it in bulk from a heating oil supplier or from a friend / relative who uses heating oil fired central heating and a growing number of heating oil brokers have a self service pump available for small quantities.

For those who aren’t able to purchase small quantities of Domestic Heating Oil locally, we now have a growing list of Vendors who sell Heating Oil Online and offer delivery of small to medium sized containers directly to your door, with no large minimum order quantity.

For those who wish to continue to use the manufacturer approved premium paraffin in their heaters, Premium Paraffin can be purchased online using the vendors listed on our C1 Premium Paraffin Page, who offer a saving over buying the small 4 litre pre-packed containers from DIY Stores!.

If you do decide to use standard heating oil in your inverter heater, then I do strongly advise filtering the kerosene into the heater tank using a“Mr Funnel”. The Mr Funnel filter will ensure that any dirt and rust particles are removed from the fuel and that any trapped water caused by bulk tank storage is filtered out which ensures longer periods between cleaning of the heater filter and also prevents the heater from showing an “E4” error warning (which indicates water contamination in the fuel). You can buy a Mr Funnel water and dirt filter from Here

During the 2018 / 2019 Winter period I trialed a fuel additive product called Dipetane (which was mentioned by a few people over the years in my comments), with an open mind, I began adding 10ml of the additive to every 4L tank fill of Heating Oil. Despite my tendency to routinely consider all additives as snake oil, I actually noticed a significant reduction in carbon around the combustion chamber in all of my heaters when I did my service of them during the spring. So, Dipetane is the only additive which I would actively recommend for those burning standard heating oil in their heaters, and it can be purchased online from Here.

Finally, we all like to get a bargain and save money on the initial cost of buying a new heater and so I constantly search the UK and European inverter heater stockists in order to find the best deals every season. Obviously prices do change, as retailer stock levels and demand vary between the winter and summer months and to address this we now have a new Inverter Heater Offers page, which is updated on a regular basis and lists the cheapest Inverter Heaters that we can find online, along with any Special Offers.

If you have any questions, comments or wish to share your own experiences in relation to using Paraffin / Kerosene for domestic home heating in these heaters, then please leave a comment. (You can also read hints and tips, as well as the experiences of hundreds of other Inverter Heater users in the comments below)

187 Responses to Home Heating using paraffin Inverter heaters

  1. Margo Jackson says:

    Just found this site – thanks. I like the whole idea. But can’t find paraffin in Bath for less than £8 per 4-litres (local garden centre). Do you happen to know a cheaper source?

  2. admin says:

    Hi Margo,

    Paraffin, is certainly harder to source nowadays, compared to years ago, when many households routinely used it for heating and lighting, and there was a self service style pump on most local petrol station forecourts. The paraffin, now found in most DIY stores (and Garden Centres) is pre-packaged, and sold at a premium, hence the high price.

    Lately, i’ve been running my own inverter heater on oridinally household heating oil Kerosene, this is commonly sold as 28 second heating oil and used in domestic oil fired central heating, and whilst it is very diffcult to source heating oil from a local heating oil supplier in less than 500 litre quantities.

    Sometimes you really do have to be cheeky to get what you need, and I had great success with appealing through my local Freecycle website asking to buy small quantities of heating oil from people living in households fitted with oil fired central heating. Now I arrange to take my containers around to their address when they are expecting an oil delivery, and they arrange with their bulk heating oil supplier for an extra 50 litres to be dispensed into my (2x) 25 litre containers at the same time as they have their oil tank refilled.

    They also only charge me the actual cost of the oil, which works out at about 56p per litre or 5.6p kw/h in terms of the cost of running the heater on it. Of course they also get a bottle of wine and whisky from me at Christmas as a token of goodwill. So if you know anybody who uses oil fired central heating, then this may be one possible source.

    Alternatively, see if there are Allotment Societies close by who may buy bulk Paraffin for use in their members’ greenhouse heaters during the winter months.

    You can also buy premium paraffin online and have it delivered by courier. The price hovers around £20.50 for 16 litres, there is a delivery charge of £8.99 but this covers a delivery of upto 32 litres. You can buy it online from here:-


    So the price for 32 litres including delivery would be £49.99, which equals £1.56 per litre. This is still very expensive compared to the other options, but compares favourably with your local quote of £8 per 4 litres, which would be £2.00 per litre

    You may also like to contact Caldo Oils on 01744 813 535 they are based in St Helens, however they also distribute bulk fuel all over the UK, and they may be able to put you in touch with a fuel broker in your location, who can supply you with either kerosene or C1 Paraffin.

  3. admin says:


    I have also found the following Allotment societies close to your location, who may be able to supply you with bulk purchased paraffin into Jerry Cans.


    Don’t worry about the published waiting times given on the links, as you are not wanting to rent an allotment, just needing to purchase paraffin from their club. Allotment societies are often more than happy to sell to non members, as it raises a little bit of revenue for the society, although some may charge you a small membership fee to access their facilities, such as the on site store in order to make a purchase.

  4. tony says:

    This link might help people looking for Allotment Societies in London. I have no idea whether any of them sell paraffin. If anybody knows of any that do please let us know


  5. brett chamberlain says:

    I have three of these inverter heaters and I use the caldo paraffin. I buy it in bulk in the summer usually and they deliver it for free when its convenient for them. http://www.caldo.co.uk/
    Two of my heaters have the E4 fault code problem. Anyone know how to fix this?
    Id be interested in trying out kerosene 28 in one of them. Are you sure there are no problems related to using it?

  6. admin says:

    Hi Brett

    E4 Faults are generally caused by contaminated fuel (usually a high water content) or poor combustion. Have you cleaned the plastic mesh fuel strainer filter located in the bottom of the heater where the tank nozzle slots into?. Its worth removing this and giving it a good scrub with old toothbrush or nail brush. Don’t forget to also clean the air intake filter located at the back of the unit also.

    If that doesn’t solve the problem then its probably Water contamination in fuel, which is a little harder to remove, but is common during the winter, especially if you have stored the fuel for any period of time in a cold area such as a garage or shed and happens when condensation forms inside the small airspace inside the container and drips into the fuel.

    The easiest way of removing it again, is to filter the fuel through a “Mr Funnel” type filter as you pour the fuel from the container into the heater fuel tank, this special filter removes all of the water which has found its way into the fuel, and in combination with a fuel filter and air filter clean, should remove your E4 error issue.

    In relation to running these heaters in Kerosene, I can only advise based on my own personal experience. I originally wrote the article above, nearly three Years ago, and since then I’ve continued to use nothing but 28 second Kerosene for fueling two inverter heaters, with no reported problems.

    I use my heaters in the Evenings when the E7 storage heaters run out of heat, and so they generally get around 5 or 6 hours hours of use every night in the winter months, so they are in regular use.

    There are also a couple of other Inverter heater users who also use Kerosene, who have commented on the C1 Paraffin Page http://electricheatingcosts.com/class-c1-paraffin/

  7. brett chamberlain says:

    Thanks for the reply. Ive just filled up my inverter paraffin heater with heating oil so will let you know if I discover any problems. If it works OK, and I dont get too many complaints about the smell, then I could be saving about a third on my paraffin costs. Might be more but I cant remember how much I paid last time. Thanks for the advice. Incidently, Ive bought spares from Dry it out for this heater and the man there was very helpful.

  8. brett chamberlain says:

    Heating oil works fine. Once I used up the paraffin I will use only heating oil. Thanks, great tip!

  9. Neil C says:

    Hi all! I borrowed a 3200 watt inverter to try out in my workshop. We used heating oil and it worked fine. I was amazed at how much heat was produced. I’m definitely going to buy one, but don’t know whether to spend extra and buy the same type from a UK supplier or go for the cheaper Italian supplied version. I can get the UK supplied one for £230.00 posted, but can’t help thinking that the extra £40.00 could be spent on fuel, if I buy the cheaper one. Is there any difference in quality between the two and do they use fuel at about the same rate? I don’t want to get the wrong one for the sake of £40.00.

    Thanks in advance.


    PS. A mate of mine is thinking of one for his log cabin.

  10. admin says:

    Hi Neil,

    Thanks for your comment. Yes, these little inverter heaters really are amazing, and do save loads of money, especially when compared to Electric Heaters of the same wattage. I’ve used domestic heating oil instead of the expensive Premium paraffin in both of my inverter heaters now for a couple of years, and suffered no ill effects whatsoever. However you may want to invest in one of the “Mr Funnel” type filters if, like me, you intend to use the heater on heating oil on a permanent basis.

    In respect of your question regarding which heater to buy, well I have both a “branded” (Corona) inverter heater and also one of the OEM copies, which are often re-badged and sold as Ruby or Kero and these versions seem very popular heaters in Europe. The one I have is a Kero SRE series which I bought through Brico Bravo, all of the heaters are imported through exactly the same main European importer and distributor and so they all have to conform to very stringent EU safety regulations, so on the issue of safety there should be no comparison between the Corona heaters and the cheaper Italian model. I also find it to be just as well built – at least nothing has broken, fallen apart or started leaking, and both heaters get used on a daily basis during the winter months.

    The Italian heater seems to have a slightly smaller fuel tank capacity, and I would estimate it to hold around 4 – 4.5 litres as opposed to the 5 litres which I can squeeze into the Corona fuel tank.

    Fuel consumption seems to be roughly the same, they are both rated at 3200 watts output, and use roughly the same amount of fuel on a litre by litre basis. The Italian heater has slightly better temperature controls than my Corona 3016, and as well as having the usual digital temperature settings, the Italian heater also has ‘Min’ and ‘Save’ functions where you can manually switch the heater to its lowest (800w) setting or into fuel saving mode, whilst in comparison the Corona will switch between its Low and High settings automatically based on the digital temperature settings, there is no manual override.

    So, I find the Italian heater is much more flexible for background heating, such as warming a bedroom an hour or so before it becomes occupied, I just leave the heater on its minimum setting, regardless of the setting on the digital thermostat.

    I’m sure that your friend will find these ideal for heating a log cabin especially if the only alternatives are Electricity or LPG, which is where the biggest savings with these heaters can be made. I use mine as a main source of heat in a flat-annexe attached to a farmhouse, in a rural area with no mains gas. Using the fitted storage heaters was both expensive and inefficient and since using the Inverter heaters I have transformed the previously cold, drafty flat into a warm comfortable living space and at the same time, also taken the sting out of the winter energy bills.

    This is now the middle of the third winter where I have relied on them, and they have both more than paid for themselves in the savings.

  11. Neil C says:

    Being able to set it on the lowest setting would be excellent and ideal for what I want to use one for. This is the one I’m looking at buying….


    It differs only slightly from the one in your link, smaller tank and and 800 to 3000 watts, opposed to a 1000 watts minimum. My mate uses Mr Funnels, so that won’t be a problem. :-)

    Glad I found this site, as I’ve found it very useful and I’ve sent links to some other friends, one of which hates modern light bulbs and only has electric.

  12. Matt says:

    There is a health hazard to use this device as the main source of heating

  13. admin says:

    @ Matt do you actually have anything to back up your claims that these heaters are a health hazard? or are you just a troll spouting random, ill-informed scaremongering information?. On your next post here, please provide us with valid sources for your claim, ideally a fact based lab report from a reputable / medical source, and of which mention these heaters by name.

    I find it difficult to believe that these heaters would be allowed to be freely imported and sold in the UK (and indeed in the more stringent, safety & environmentally aware EU) if there was any threat to health whatsoever and in the UK we pretty much quickly ban anything and everything if there is even a tiny risk that it will maim or kill.

    Yes, there is a very small risk of CO2 poisoning if the heater is used in a very confined space, however this risk applies to ANY open flame combustion based heater, including the popular mobile gas heater or even a badly maintained log burner or a gas fire with a blocked chimney. In other words, don’t fire one of these up in order to heat a wardrobe or a tent, and make sure you buy the correct heater for the room size and that there is some natural room ventilation. However, all of these inverter heaters carry built in CO2 monitoring with cut outs, which will extinguish the heater should you choose to fire it up in something small like a wendy house and CO2 levels rise above normal safe levels!, (The many built-in safety features actually make an inverter heater safer to use than the other heating appliances which I mentioned). There are also some common sense safety rules when filling these heaters with fuel, but i’m sure that I don’t need to point out obvious things like that.

    On a more personal note, I use two of these heaters (living area and bedroom) on a regular basis, and as my main source of heating in a small flat, and this is now well into my third winter of doing so. During this time, I have never had any medical complaints, nor suffered from any breathing related ailments, runny eyes, headaches, flu-like symptoms etc, nor have I spontaneously combusted. I also have a carbon monoxide detector and a standard smoke detector, and the Inverter Heater has, so far, triggered neither of these.

    So, if there was any health hazard attached to using these heaters, after three years of regular use, I would be a prime candidate for the earliest of symptoms by now.

    I will also point out, that these heaters are very popular in households all over the world, in fact they are still the MAIN source of heating in millions of Japanese households, and have been for many years (over 700,000 portable inverter heaters were sold in Japan in the winter of 2011 alone), in fact kerosene fueled portable Inverter heaters are far more popular and common in Japan than Gas Central Heating systems.


    In addition to Japan, they are also a popular source of heating in France, Spain, Cyprus etc and are very popular with UK Ex-Pats living out there, to the point where their usage has grown so much, that Kero is now sold in bulk containers at most Hypermarkets.




    I would also be happy to provide more links Matt, all of which will further negate your scaremongering, however, since I have already taken the time to link to several sources, all of which back up my own points, would you now also have the courtesy to share your sources Matt?.

  14. admin says:

    @ Neil C – Yes that heater looks very familiar, I think it is from the same family as my SRE model came from, although mine is a slightly older model, but it was also from the same vendor – Brico Bravo.

    It is a shame that Brico, seem to be constantly hiking their prices at the moment. I paid around £149 inc delivery for my SRE heater from them just a few winters ago, and their price also seems to have gone up by yet another £10 since last month!. I would perhaps suggest buying one soon, or there won’t be much saving to be made over buying a Corona from a UK source. I know a few people who already have chosen to buy a “Branded” Corona heater for the extra £30 – £40 rather than the Cheaper Brico version, even though, personally, I rate them equally.

    I may remove the Brico link page as its not so much of a deal anymore, but if anybody knows a cheaper alternative for these heaters then please comment the link below and I will promote it.

  15. Matt says:

    thank you for your advice.am living in 3 rooms cotage house and i want use this heather like main source because central oil heathing in mi house is expensive for one person.It uses only two rooms in the evening since the whole day of work and home is only 15 degrees when they return to work.

  16. Neil C says:

    Ordered the heater a few days ago and I decided to get the small Mr Funnel from the eBay link. Funnel arrived today, just need the heater now. :-)

  17. Neil C says:

    Heater arrived today and at first I was a little disappointed as the first thing I saw was ‘Made in China’ on the box. I then thought that nearly everything you buy these days is made there so decided I shouldn’t worry about it. The build quality is actually very good.

    I chose to try it out with paraffin, just in case it was faulty, so the fuel couldn’t be used as an excuse not to repair/replace it under guarantee.

    Anyway, I needn’t have worried as it fired up lovely and gave out loads of heat, even running at only 800 watts.

    One extra bonus is that on eBay it’s listed as £189.99, but the receipt reads €189.99, so hopefully it’s cost me under £160.00. I’ll post again when the bill comes in.

  18. George B. says:

    Hello Admin,
    Thank you so much for taking the trouble to research and offer all of this advice. I have been a fan of Paraffin heating for years, no doubt because my mother used it to keep us toasty warm throughout my childhood through the fifties and sixties and I am still here!. In those days, other than an open fire or electric there was little more choice to be had. I still use an Aladdin blue flame and also have a KSP Ruby which warms the whole downstairs rooms and even up stairs as we are open plan. It is a wonderful heater. I have ordered an Inverter heater and it seems to be the same model that you have talked about. We intend to replace the gas and electric as our main heating and cut it down to a minimum, maybe only for hot water due to the rip-off costs. We love it and are certainly warm and cosy. Keep up with your excellent work and thank you once again.

  19. admin says:

    Hi George,

    Thank you for your kind words. This blog is pretty much a “work in progress”, which will be constantly updated as the technology evolves, and more and more users of these heaters contribute their own experiences and advice. Right now it serves to give advice to those who feel trapped by the constant rising of energy prices, and that it is possible to save some money without having to make the sacrifice of being freezing cold and uncomfortable in the process.

    I’m a child of the 70’s, an era when Storage heaters and Gas Central heating was gaining ground and becoming the heating of choice in modern new build houses. However I fondly remember walking to school, past the local garage, complete with its self service paraffin pump on the forecourt, in fact I believe that even then paraffin was widely available from virtually every petrol station and hardware shop, and it cost very little, at least in real terms compared to the inflated prices of the pre-packaged stuff today.

    Hopefully, the growth of heaters such as these will trigger a return to seeing paraffin and kerosene being easier to obtain and more widely available as I know that many visitors to this website are having difficulty sourcing a supply of fuel locally, especially those in larger cities, who are often restricted to the small 4 and 5 litre containers sold in DIY Stores, which often equates to a cost over £2 a litre. A price which is quite ridiculous, considering its a duty rebated heating fuel, and far easier and cheaper to refine in bulk than petrol.

    Its quite ironic, that energy prices have now rocketed to the point where many consumers are actively returning to the traditional fuels which were popular many decades ago, such as paraffin heaters, open fires and wood burners and I can see this trend continuing as the energy companies try to squeeze more and more people towards fuel poverty. Hopefully, heaters such as these, will at least allow us to even the balance a little.

  20. George B. says:

    Hi admin, Thank you for your reply and what you have said is very true. Over the years, it seems to have been engineered, what with the clean air act coming into effect back in the sixties, which had to happen with all the London smog’s that I can remember very well. In return, most new built houses since then have been designed without chimneys and therefore steering everyone towards cleaner gas central heating. It was a god send to those of us that had never known such luxury, but it has got to the stage where they have us by the short and whats names!. I have now received my new Inverter heater and I am as warm as toast right now, what a great investment. All I worry about now is that the powers that be, do not start pricing us out of Paraffin as people start to revert back to our good old favorite and very reliable form of heating, we can but keep our fingers crossed. Thank you for your time and my best regards. George.

  21. Yvonne says:

    Hi, can anyone help and work out how much it would cost to have one of these heaters on 24/7 in cold weather. I lost my home and have come to live with a relative with all of my many cats. The cats are housed outside in a summerhouse and a garage with duvets and sofas etc, but as they are elderly they must be kept warm. My calor gas heating bill from late last August to the last bottle I purchased in early June amount to over £3000! I cannot repeat the same this winter as I simply cannot afford it. So please, can anybody work out for me how much it would cost having one of these heaters on 24/7. Both the summerhouse and the garage cat studio have plenty of ventilation. Thank you somebody. xxxxx

  22. admin says:

    Hi Yvonne,

    There are a lot of variables in working out how much it is going to cost to heat any room, aspects such as the physical size of the room, the desired temperature, the level of insulation in the fabric of the building and of course the outside temperature at any given time. So for example it is going to cost many times as much to heat a 20ft x 15ft room with poor insulation, than it would to heat a 10ft x 10ft room with a large amount of modern wall and ceiling insulation.

    The same variables apply to the outside temperature also, for example you are going to need more energy / fuel to heat a room to 18c when its -10c outside than you would to heat it to the same 18c when its 7c outside, so as you can see its not just a case of saying it will cost a fixed £5 per day, everyday throughout winter, as the demands on the heater and how much fuel it consumes are going to change on a daily basis depending on how cold it is that day, and how high the room temperature is set on the heater.

    One of the best ways of saving money on heating, any heating is to better insulate the room, this may be as simple as carpeting the inside walls (if it is an outbuilding) to add a cheap, simple layer of insulation to better insulating the doors with draught excluder. Ideally you need to choose the building which has the best level of insulation to house your cats as this of course will be the cheapest to heat.

    On its lowest setting a Paraffin Inverter heater will run for around 56 hours on 4 litres of Paraffin / heating oil, which equates to around 14 hours use per 1 litre of fuel. On the surface this sounds very attractive and cheap, however you will need to decide whether the lowest setting of the heater will be enough to keep the room heated 24/7, or whether the heater will be switching to its higher setting(s), which wil of course consume much more paraffin.

    At the other end of the Scale, the heater will consume 1 litre of paraffin / heating oil for every 3.3 hours of use, which is on its most highest setting. From experience, your usage will probably fall somewhere between the two points, again depending on how cold it is outside and how well the room holds the heat, hence it is extremely difficult to pin down an exact running cost.

    I use two of these heaters for heating an entire flat, and in the coldest winter months, I use around £40 – £45 worth of heating oil every month, based on Evening and Weekend domestic use at a 21c room temperature setting, so compared to a £3000 Calor bill then I suspect that there is some scope for you to save money by switching over to an Inverter Heater, however do make sure that you are able to easily obtain heating oil (cheaper than paraffin) locally, I pay around 65p per litre, and its an idea to stockpile several containers worth over the summer (when heating oil is cheaper), as the price tends to escalate suddenly as Autumn approaches and demand increases!.

    Finally, I suspect that you could also save money simply by using a cheap 1kw heater in the room for your cats, I have worked out that a 1kw heater running continuously for 24 hours a day would only cost £86 per month or £860 for the same 10 months where you have paid £3000 for Calor, so my advice is that MOST alternative forms of heating would seem to work out cheaper than using Calor in this application.

  23. Rita Lloyd says:

    I am contemplating buying 2 of these heaters. I have found your blog so encouraging. Just a few questions
    1) Am I correct in saying using heating oil may effect the warranty ??
    2) I would try and keep the warranty or some sort of emergency cover on it, I am guessing that it would only be covered if I use the oil the manufacturer recommend ?
    3) Am I correct in understanding you said it saves about 1/3 on the cost of fuel by using heating oil? I am trying to way up the difference between using the cheaper option and jeopardising the warranty against the possible cost of repairs.
    4) What is the safest way of storing the fuel,it will be outside.
    5) If I chose to, would I be able to buy 500 litres and store it in a regular Oil Tank? Could I get one fitted, raised up with a tap do you think?

    Thank you again Mr Admin for all your help and advice in advance
    Rita Lloyd

  24. Rita Lloyd says:

    Sorry forgot these questions

    1) What is the biggest quantity one can get the recommended Paraffin in?

    2) Where would I get and what sort of tank would I need to store that in?

    3) If they stop working for any reason and it was out of warranty, who would one turn to to get it repaired

    4) Is it possible and do they need servicing annually??

    Think that is it !!!!!! Many thanks

  25. admin says:

    Hi Rita,

    Whether using domestic heating oil in these heaters will void the warranty, is largely down to the wording in the warranty section of the user manual, as it does vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. For example, the manual for a Corona Heater states that the user should only use premium fuel in their Inverter Heaters, which if the warranty is to be preserved, effectively means using only the recommended £1.40+ litre premium pre-packed fuel from the heater dealers and larger DIY chains. Unfortunately this negates any real savings in using these heaters to replace Electric Heaters or Storage Heaters, especially when the one off purchase cost of the actual heater(s) is also added into the equation.

    However some of the Chinese Heaters are a little more flexible in relation to the fuel, and my cheap imported ‘Kero’ heater states in the user manual that Kerosene Fuel should be used, and since 28 second heating oil sold in the UK is essentially Kerosene, then there should be no problem with the warranty.

    It all comes down to how much you value your warranty, over the potential to save money over your future energy bills. I took a little bit of a gamble and I have been lucky in that both of my heaters are still going strong well outside of their warranty period. If this Winter they stopped working, the money I have already saved over Electricity, would replace them both and at the same time, still offer a saving over what I would be paying to Npower or Eon.

    The void between Kerosene (Heating Oil) and Premium Paraffin is huge at the moment, around 70p – £1.00 a litre cheaper for heating oil compared to pre-packaged premium paraffin, depending on what the premium products are sold for locally, so it doesn’t take long to get back the cost of the heater, *IF* it should fail in the warranty period.

    Unfotunately, you can only buy the Premium Paraffin products in 4 litre containers in the UK usually from Hardware stores and DIY Chains, which works out very expensive. You can sometimes find 20 or 25 litre drums online, however since the Royal Mail stopped carrying hazardous fluids in 2012, its extremely expensive to buy these products by mail, as the special carriage charges are often three times the cost of the actual purchase. This is another reason to find, buy and transport your own fuel from a local broker.

    You also have to take into account, that in Japan (Where these heaters are routinely used in place of central heating) they largely only have Kerosene available locally, “Premium” products are largely unknown in places like Japan and the U.S. Perhaps its a European thing. So if you did get unlucky and the heater fail under warranty, I suspect that it would be nothing to do with the fuel, considering their popularity in non premium product places, like Japan.

    I would, however, recommend using one of the “Mr Funnel” type filters to filter the fuel as it goes into the heater tank, as we do see some small amounts of water, dirt and rust particles in fuel which has been bulk stored in underground tanks, at some point in its distribution.

    In respect of storing the fuel, I use basic plastic 25 litre “Jerry Cans”, and visit my local fuel broker about once a month (in mid winter) to fill 4 containers (100 litres) this can easily (and legally) be carried in a domestic car / small van. I then keep these in the Garden Shed (alternatively they could be kept in one of those lockable plastic Garden chests, which are designed to hold gardening tools). These 25 litre containers often carry fruit juice for the licensed trade and various other trade fluids. If you have one of the commercial car washing businesses locally (e.g IMO), they are also used to carry detergent, and often these businesses are happy to give them away as they usually have to pay for them to be disposed of. Ebay is also another option.

    In fact Ebay has many weird and wonderful containers for sale, ranging from 30 / 60 litre screw top barrels, to 120 litre ‘rain butt’ type containers. Provided the top is removal and air tight (with the top in place) then anything can be used. Most house insurance policies allow you to keep upto 100 or so litres of fuel at the address provided its outside of the house in a shed or other outbuilding. Anything above 100 litres then you would need a proper ‘bunded’ fuel container, which are often used for domestic heating oil boilers and store 500+ litres.

    There is nothing stopping you from obtaining your own small bunded heating oil tank of 500 litres, however you would have to buy this outright as the fuel brokers will only subsidise them as part of an oil fired boiler heating installation contract, and they can be as much as several hundred pounds although they do appear on Ebay as second hand. If you did choose for a bunded heating oil tank, you could site it in the garden and have a fuel delivery broker of your choice to come and fill it from a tanker. Provided its an approved tank and you meet the minimum delivery quantities, I suspect that they won’t know (or care) whether its feeding a boiler or your inverter heater.

    Other alternatives, are IBC’s of 600 and 1000 litres (Google or Ebay them), however if you are intending to have a local broker deliver to you from a road tanker, you would need to check first that your local broker is happy to fill IBC’s from their tanker though, as often they will only fill approved bunded tanks – although I suspect most won’t care as long as its located in the Garden away from the house, in good condition with no leaks and they can reach it with their hose.

    If you do choose a smaller container / drum (25 – 100 litres) try and fill the container as far to the top as you can to minimise air gaps and screw on the air tight lid / cap as tight as possible.

    I have only serviced my heaters once in about 4 years, and I did this myself (I have put a guide and a “how to” on this website) which can probably be carried out by anybody with a reasonable level of DIY Skill. If you prefer not to do or try this yourself then I would suspect that most plumbers or heating engineers would be more than happy to service it, or alternatively there was a place in Preston who advertise their services over the Winter months and offer mail order servicing of Inverter Heaters for around £45 per heater, the contact name for the person dealing with this was Alex and the number given was 07988774336 – however I have never personally used this company.

    Most problems can be avoided by keeping the fuel stored in air tight containers, away from sunlight, and filtering it as it goes into the heater tank, as well as basic routine monthly maintenance such as cleaning the fuel filter and air filter. Using the correct start up / switch off routine as described in the manual also prevents the heater jets becoming clogged with carbon.

    Finally, given your questions, I would perhaps advise that you start out with just one heater first, and at the same time establish a local supply of fuel. Once your confidence in using these heaters grows, you can then add another heater at a later date. This was what I did, and so far, four years on, I have no regrets, just the saving of around £40 – £50 a month in my monthly Electricity bills during the colder months.

  26. Mark says:

    Great blog- just bought my own inverter and am so happy not being so stressed as I was when I turned on the electric heaters. I have contacted a local place in london who is offering lowest price 92p/ litre for 28 kerosene at the pump (own can). Seems really expensive in comparison to what you have posted especially as it looks like the price is dropping like mad and the market price is about 51 (http://www.boilerjuice.com/). Any advice on if this is just the markup in fall or if I should keep looking? Also, roughly how many litres during an average winter month do you use?

  27. admin says:

    Hi Mark,

    92p per Litre does sound expensive, I currently pay 67p per litre from an heating oil supplier on the Staffordshire – West Midlands border who has a similar set up (Pump on the premises), and even at the price i’m paying, I consider this to be expensive compared to what I was originally paying when this blog was originally written.

    I suspect that local competition in your area plays a part in this, (or rather lack of competition) and I would think that they are perhaps the only heating oil supplier in the area who has a self service pump for small quantities, perhaps you could try and persuade any other local heating oil brokers to invest in a pump on their premises? and this will increase the competition and eventually reduce the prices. The price of Kero may also be higher in the City than a rural area due to a lower number of properties using oil fired heating and requiring a regular bulk tank delivery.

    I am constantly frustrated regarding the premium which some heating oil suppliers place on small quantities of heating oil sold via self service pump, dispensed into a customers’ container. I appreciate that the best prices are always going to come from bulk buying 500+ litres at a time, and that there are some additional overheads in relation to buying, calibrating, insuring and maintaining a pump which is accessible to the public, however some of the premiums levied per litre between a self service sale over a tanker delivery is just blatant profiteering, especially when you consider that such self service purchases negate the need to fuel and run a delivery tanker to an address or the driver to make the delivery and i’m sure that these self service sales are only so expensive because of the lack of competition and basic old fashioned greed, especially at a time (Oct 2014) when oil prices have taken a tumble and we have seen a mild start to the Autumn.

    All that I can suggest is that you continue shopping around, perhaps widening your search area if you have the means to transport a container a further distance. I do have to travel about 45 minutes each way, in order to get the price i’m currently paying for Kero, however I take three containers per trip in order to offset the cost and make the journey worthwhile. Although I appreciate that this is only possible if you have suitable transport and also the facilities to safely store a quantity of fuel. Suffice to say that the lowest prices do tend to be in areas with the biggest demand for Kerosene.

    Hopefully as the interest and demand for these heaters continues, the competition will increase and the price of the kero will eventually fall everywhere as more and more fuel brokers recognise that there is a trend for consumers requiring smaller quantities of fuel.

    There is a bit of good news however, even at 92p per litre it works out that you are paying about 9.2p per kw/h for heat, compared to 12p per kw/h for Electricity on the best standard tariff (or 16p+ per kw/h on the daytime rate if you are on Economy 7) so you are still saving money over using Electric Heating even at these prices. Hopefully you will eventually find a supplier whose Kero prices are a little more realistic.

    To answer your other question, last Winter was relatively mild, so its probably more accurate to use my consumption for 2012/3 which was more of a typical UK winter. On average, I used around 10 – 12 litres per week of standard Kero during the coldest period, this figure was the combined fuel usage of two heaters, one heater being used in the living area for around 5 hours per week-night, and 10 hours per weekend day, the other heater just being used for a 10 – 20 minute blast to warm up a bedroom prior to going to bed.

  28. Mark says:

    Amazing! Thanks for the detailed reply- extremely useful. I will buy a small quanitity for now and keep looking! This is really a great option. Thanks for sharing.

  29. Huw says:

    Hi Mark
    I’m in Hertfordshire and am having trouble finding Kero – would you mind telling me where you are getting your from on pump?

    Currently I am transporting it from my parents house in wales who have oil filred central heating – its not ideal.

  30. Jerry says:

    many thanks for the detailed information…you’ve really done your research! I’ve taken the plunge and bought one off ebay


    from Brica Brava. It’s the SRE304 model with 3KW output. I bought it with a 10% off voucher too, bringing the cost to just over £150 including delivery! I’ve also bought a Mr Funnel, so I’m now looking for the cheapest supply of Kerosene in the local area. I live in South Staffs, and regularly travel to Birmingham. I’ve found a company in Erdington that can supply Kerosene in 25 litre quantities from a pump for 75p a litre…is there any chance you could let me know where you get it for 67p on the Staffs/West Mids border? It’d be less distance to travel, and every little helps! I’ll keep you all informed as to how I get on with it…I want to heat my conservatory with it- I’ve been using an old 70s Valor radiant paraffin heater, but the cost of premium paraffin is ridiculous. I’ve been buying it from a pump in a hardware shop in Sheldon, Birmingham for £1.65 a litre. I’m hoping that the difference between that and cheaper kerosene will make a big difference to the monthly fuel budget.
    Thanks again for all the advice.

  31. admin says:

    Hi Jerry,

    Unfortunately my previous supplier has stopped selling Kero from the Pump and now only deliver in 500 litre bulk deliveries to those with heating oil tanks. I’m guessing that the existing supplier you use in Erdington is GB Fuel?.

    I have since switched supplier and use a company in Cheadle, Staffordshire called Stoddards. Its a bit more of a trek, but I buy in 80 – 100 litre batches from their pump, which last me for quite a few months. The current price is 72p a litre, which is more than I like to pay but it is slightly cheaper than 75p, and will do until I find another alternative source locally. Its still better than the £1.50+ per litre from B&Q!.

    One thing that I have found is if you build up a rapport with the supplier and keep going back to them over a period, they get to know you, and are a little bit more likely to give you a bit of a loyalty discount (if you keep asking them for it!!). After all, they are already charging a very generous 15p – 20p per litre premium at the pump on exactly the same fuel which they deliver to customers with bulk tanks for about 54p per litre, and their overheads are actually lower at the pump as they don’t have to pay for the diesel & running cost for the tanker and the wages of a driver to deliver it!. So be prepared to negotiate a little after you have given the supplier continuous business.

    I’ve given Stoddards’ information below, should you want to consider them.

    Stoddards Fuel
    Telephone: 01538 752253
    Greenhill Garage
    Leek Road
    ST10 1JF

  32. admin says:

    Just one other thing which is worth a mention at this point. If any UK based heating oil vendors who can supply small quantities of Kerosene for users of these heaters are reading this, then you are welcome to post a (Free) advert for your company here along with your business website url and contact details. This site currently gets around 3500 hits per month during the Winter Months (and visits are growing on an annual basis, as is the popularity of these types of heater), so its a very effective form of targeted advertising and it costs nothing.

    This same invitation also applies to users of these heaters, it would be good if you could also share your sources of Kerosene (heating oil) on this comments section too, in order to help other inverter heater owners in your area.

  33. Jerry says:

    Thanks for the advice.
    Yes, it is GBfuels in Erdington…I work in Birmingham so I’m intending on using them regularly over the coming months. Just hope my heater’s suited to kerosene. It’s a Zibro clone, not a Corona (as previously mentioned on this thread). I just hope they haven’t put in some kind of sneaky modification to ensure it doesn’t run on Kero, just premium. That’d be just my luck!
    Thanks for the info on Stoddards- However, it’s slightly further to Cheadle from home than to Erdington and doesn’t make the 3p saving per litre worthwhile. Great idea asking for a loyalty discount as I order more Kero over the Winter. I’ve also got a multifuel burner in the house, so I might order my coal from GBfuels too. Hopefully, a better chance of a loyalty discount!
    Thanks again.

  34. admin says:

    Hi Jerry,

    If its a fan blown Inverter Heater similar to the Corona Heater then it should work fine, there are several different clones of the Corona heaters sold all over the world, but they all use a similar format and design. The only heaters which I don’t recommend using Heating Oil in, are the wick based radiant heaters, similar to the one on the link below, as these get sooty when used on anything but Premium Paraffin.


    The Fan based Inverter Heaters work completely differently using a type of small scale injection process rather than the old style wick, so they can be used with standard Kero.

    Its worth remembering that Kerosene and Paraffin are just generic names for what is exactly the same fuel, and the Japanese (who are the biggest consumers for these products) run their heaters on Kerosene routinely, which is exactly the same fuel as we use in the UK for 28 second heating oil, so the manufacturers would be loosing a big chunk of their international market if they ever stopped the heaters from running on Kero!

    Premium Paraffin, is just a big marketing ploy for what is slightly better refined Kerosene, the extra refining process removes most of the Aromatics, making it virtually odourless and more hence its more appealing when sold to fuel anything which is used indoors. Of course, premium fuel also comes with a premium price.

    Another fuel that works very well with these heaters, is Jet-A1 which is used to fuel helicopters and light aircraft. This again, is just nicely refined Kerosene with a few additives to stop it icing at low temperatures. Unfortunately unless you live close to a small airfield, its beyond the reach of most people. But I do know a few people who live close to small airfields with pay at the pump Jet A1 facilities, so they can just roll up with their containers, swipe their credit cards on the pump and then dispense as much as they like into their containers.

    Whatever fuel you use, the only time that these heaters give out their distinctive Kerosene smell is when they first start up and again when they go through the shut down process, but its brief and will never pose much of an issue.

  35. Mark says:

    Sorry for the late reply Huw. I get my Kerosene for 92 p -L in North London at a pump. I have asked them for a cheaper price but they have refused. I suggest if you go there ask them as well. I will keep asking them and eventually the pressure will work. The name is Adams bottled gas.

    Address: 89 The Ave, London, New Southgate N11 1NF
    Phone:020 8368 8936

    Open weekdays and sat until 13.

  36. Jerry says:

    I had the Inverter delivered from Italy last Wednesday. It’s branded as a ‘Royal’ heater, and made in China. After reading the extensive instructions, I thought I’d fill it with premium paraffin to make sure it worked ok. It did, and threw out a heck of a lot of heat! As you say, it smells only for a brief time when you start it up, and switches off. When it’s running there’s no smell. The 5 litre tank lasted till Saturday morning- I had it on ‘save’ setting, which keeps the room at a set temperature, switching on and off as needed. It’s been used to heat a conservatory. Saturday afternoon…crunch time! I decided to fill it up with kerosene (after being put through a ‘Mr. Funnel’ orange filter) and switch it on. I sat there with a fire extiguisher, just in case!!! It fired up beautifully, and has been working on kero ever since. The flame isn’t as blue as when using premium, but it seems to throw out the same amount of heat. There’s no more of a smell either. The only error warning I’ve got is E11 (which is insufficient ventilation), but opening a door and window a little more usually solves the problem. I really hope it keeps going. Would you recommend using this ‘exocet’ additive? It’s just over £11 a bottle on ebay, but wondered if there’s any real need for it.
    Thanks again for the advice.
    Keep warm!

  37. admin says:

    Hi Jerry.

    Thanks for the feedback, its good to know that Kerosene is also working for you, and by switching from expensive Premium Paraffin to standard 28 second Kero, you will save a fortune. Its now three years since I made the switch myself, and both of my heaters still work just fine, with no ill effects to them or me, and I use them for my main heating in both a living room and bedroom.

    Using a “Mr Funnel” is the most important thing, Kero can easily absorb water and tiny rust particles when stored in underground tanks at the fuel depot or brokers, both of which these heaters are very sensitive too, so its an important that the fuel is essentially de-watered and filtered via the funnel when filling the heater tank.

    The ‘Exocet’ is an additive which is used to reduce soot and carbon deposits in Kero Fueled AGA’s I figured that since it was used in such an expensive piece of equipment, that it couldn’t do any harm when used in these heaters, especially if it keeps the ignitor and flame rod clear of carbon build up for a little bit longer (both of these components require a routine, basic clean every few years, which is easy to DIY). But its use is optional, as I have no way of actually seeing whether there are any actual benefits in using it or not., or at least enough to justify its expense. I tend to use it occasionally, perhaps a couple of times a year just to clean it through.

    Kero Additives, just like the ones used in car fuel tanks can tread a fine line between being beneficial and snake oil so I try to be careful about what I recommend. I am testing an additive at the moment which is supposed to be better for Kero fired boilers than just raw Kerosene alone, its slightly more expensive than Exocet but its a much bigger bottle, so it works out cheaper per litre of Kero than Exocet. Ive just serviced both of my heaters, and i’m trying the new additive in one heater, and no additive in the other, then i’m going to check the internal parts to see whether the additive does make it burn cleaner and so keep the combustion components cleaner, thus extending the intervals between servicing.

    You will get between 10kw and 11kw worth of heat from every litre of Kerosene burned. No additive will increase this output, despite any miracle claims which may be made by the manufacturer to the contrary, so any additive should be used with a view to keeping both the heater combustion chamber and its components cleaner between services, rather than increasing heat output!.

    These heaters are already 99% efficient, with or without an additive so thats already pretty hard to improve. Thanks to the fact that they require no external flue, all of the heat goes into the room, rather than a large percentage escaping up a Chimney as is the case with a Boiler, Gasfire or woodburner.

    However just like any open fire, portable gas heater or any form of heater which uses combustion, good natural room ventilation is required, so as you have found, if the room isn’t naturally drafty, or has a good level of sealed double glazing then opening a window or a vent a little bit is a good idea. These heaters do have several safety devices incorporated which cut off the heater if the room isn’t ventilated enough or the heater is too big for a room (Generally to stop people using them in a tent or similar) which make them very safe, far safer than portable gas heaters.

  38. Paul (Storm Plover) says:


    Out of your remit but do you think that kero would be OK for Tilley lamps/Primus stoves/hurricane lamps, I too am hacked off with £6.50 for 4 litres paraffin at B&Q and it gets mighty cold on my wooden boat in winter.

    Good link for traditional paraffin technology and spares is http://www.base-camp.co.uk/


  39. admin says:

    I would be quietly confident that the Tilley Lamp would run fine on 28 second heating oil, but not so sure about the other two. Didn’t Primus make two different options / designs for their stoves?, one using Paraffin type fuel the other using White Gas spirit based design (Coleman Fuel). I think the newer Primus stoves like the Omnifuel would happily work with a wide variety of fuels, including 28 second Kero, but as for a more traditional designs, I couldn’t say for sure, too many variations and models. However if you have already tried the stove on Paraffin then it could work on 28 second heating oil, but if you do decide to try it, just use a small amount at first.

  40. Haydn says:

    Typically I’ve done things the wrong way around, i.e. buy the heater first then do the research later having stumbled upon this useful blog hours after my heater arrived!

    It’s a 3200w Japanese-made unit. I have no intention of putting anything other than kerosene in it pulled from my central heating tank. In use within moments of coming out of the box I’m impressed! Portable cheap safe heat. I’m wondering whether anyone’s looked at trying to get one to run off of a leisure battery, [without an inverter]? That would provide emergency heat during power cuts, or in a remote building, campervan etc. Of course it would mean bye bye warranty digging around in the electronics but would make them even more versatile.

    Briefly talking about cheap heat I’ve also recently had a Mitsubishi air-source heat pump installed. Cost under £1K. Designed to heat a largish room it provides background heat to my 4 bed house for pennies, [and as much pure water as you could ever want]! My unit will not draw more than 1KW and can provide up to 5kw output.

    Anyway, great blog, here’s to cheaper heat!

  41. admin says:

    Hi Haydn

    Thanks for taking the time to comment. I imagine that it would be possible to run the heater directly from a 12v / 24v source, however it would require a lot of modification. The biggest problem would be the combustion chamber pre-heater element. Currently it is directly mains fed, and consumes around 540w – 800w @ 230v (depending on the heater model).

    The consumption is only brief, as the heater element only serves to pre-heat the chamber, during the heater start up stage to aid ignition and start the initial combustion – and is usually energised for about 30 – 45 seconds. However it would be difficult to replicate that heat source, in such a short period of time from a low voltage supply.

    There are also different voltage rails supplied to the control panel, some of them above 12v, so if you intended to use it from a 12v supply, you would need to use some kind of SMPS converter in order to boost the supply rails which are above 12v on the main control PCB.

    I imagine its possible to do all of this, but a question mark would hang over the cost, and the level of experience required to modify it to this level, and it is probably beyond all but the most experienced of Electronic enthusiasts!.

    It would probably be easier to run it from an Inverter, of course it would have to be adequately rated in order to supply upto 800w at 230v, which would draw 70 Amps from the battery supply during the pre-heat stage. However, as I said before, this initial current only applies for the first minute that the heater is switched on to pre-heat the chamber, beyond that the continuous Electricity consumption hovers around 20W which is less than 2A from the 12v supply and would enable a reasonable amount of use from a heavy duty leisure battery.

  42. Haydn says:

    Yes, you’re right, an inverter and very meaty leisure battery would be the way to go unless you have an ology in Electronics. Thanks for thinking that one through!

  43. Peter says:

    I have used my paraffin heaters for a long time but now i’m finding that it’s costing me more and more to get the paraffin for it, when many of my colleagues and friends seem to be getting more economy out of electric heaters.

    I can see this being the last year I use my trusty paraffin heater, but it has served me very well for many years.

  44. admin says:

    Each situation is unique as not all properties are the same size, and require the same amount of heat. When I talk to friends who have Gas Central Heating, I find that even though they all live in similar Three Bedroom Properties and have the same number of occupants, their Direct Debits for Gas vary between £50 and £80 per month – no two cases or two utility bills are the same, and you could easily use the same philosophy towards Electric Heating, the costs for this method will vary greatly from property to property also, and just because one person professes to spend very little on their Energy bill, doesn’t mean that it will be the same for somebody else in a different property, for a start their thermostats may be set lower.

    The only way you will know for sure is to go back to using Electric Heating for a season or even a month, and see how the Winter month costs compare to what you are spending on Paraffin / Kero. Electricity prices are volatile, and so far this Winter we haven’t seen the annual increases announced and eventually kick in (Yet) so that is still to come. Also bear in mind that Electricity prices are set to rise over the coming five years, in order to cover the cost of the national Smart Meter roll out. In comparison, Heating Oil Kerosene prices have remained fairly stable, i’m still paying around the same per litre as I did back in 2011 – unfortunately I can’t say the same for my Electricity tariff.

    For me personally, with Economy 7 daytime peak Electricity prices hovering at just under 20p per kw/h it would never make sense to give up using an Inverter Heater on Kerosene, which still costs me roughly 7p per kw/h (based on 70p per litre). Looking at even the best Electricity standard tariffs, it still appears that Electricity on a standard single tariff is 11p – 12p per KW/h which still gives the Inverter Heater some 4p – 5p advantage over Electric Heating even if I wasn’t an Economy 7 customer, and these little differences soon add up.

    I still spend around £40 – £45 a month on Heating Oil for my two inverter heaters, back in 2010 when I was “All Electric” I was using around £100 – £120 a month at this time of year using a mixture of Three storage heaters and a convector heater to top up one room, once the storage heaters had exhausted their stored heat (usually by around 6pm – 7pm). Since Electricity hasn’t reduced in price since the last time I used it to heat with, I know that unless my heating oil costs reach that same monthly level that I was paying for Electricity originally, then I know that i’m still saving money.

    Of course it does all depend on your own costs, the closer you get to paying £1.10 a litre for the fuel, the closer you get to Electricity becoming the cheaper option, and once you pass £1.10 a Litre for the fuel, then Electricity, (provided you are on a very good tariff) does become cheaper

  45. admin says:

    Just to update the thread that Stoddards based in Cheadle, Staffs have just dropped their Kerosene heating oil from the pump prices – now down to 70p per litre. Just turn up with your containers and self serve from their pump.

    Stoddards Fuel
    Telephone: 01538 752253
    Greenhill Garage
    Leek Road
    ST10 1JF

  46. jerry says:

    Just to update you, the inverter is still working well on kerosene, using an orange Mr. Funnel to filter it. I’ve had no warning codes on the display (apart from the odd E11 when I forget to open the window or leave a door open) and certainly none to indicate water in the fuel. In fact, I used the last of my ‘Premium’ paraffin a couple of weeks ago and there seemed to be more dirt and water left in the filter funnel from that than from the Kero (the premium paraffin was also from a pump). The local supplier (GBFuels in Erdington) have just reduced their price to 65p per litre- it’s a bit of a pain making the journey to fill the container, but when I’m roasting hot in the conservatory for 6.5p per KWH it’s worth it :)
    Thanks again for the advice!

  47. Paul says:

    Hello. This foram could be very useful for me. I live in shepway, Kent. I rent a two bed detached property. It’s an upside down house, with the bedrooms downstairs. This is due to a raised entrance to the upper floor which consists of a largish lounge/ kitchen which has a high ceiling which pitches with the roof. It’s an old building.

    ….yes that’s right. It’s freezing right now!! There is no gas. Only electric. I am on key metre. So im paying stupid money. But the location is perfect for me and my daughter ( school/ work).

    It is almost impossible to find nice affordable property around here. Now I know why it was reasonable. The heating cost!!!!

    The electric heaters are not even storage. I have not dared to put them on. I use my own oil filled ones. This isn’t much better. They take ages to heat my larger room to. If at all.

    Help!! My tennancy runs out in couple of months. Im thinking of moving. I would be happy to pay the costs to change from a pre payment metre if I could find a cheaper form of heating.

    Someone mentioned parrafin heater to me on Monday. Now I want to get one or two. They sound great! I was hoping one in my daughter bedroom might convect heat to the upper room,through the ceiling and up the stairs.

    So would you suggest the Italian one from eBay? Im also trying to source a local Fuel supplier. Oh and how long do they take to be delivered?
    Many thanks. It’s fascinating reading

  48. admin says:

    Hi Paul.

    I feel your pain, I live in a rural area with no local mains gas supply, so I couldn’t have gas even if I wanted it (Unless I won the lottery!), even though I have Economy 7 storage heating, back in 2010 when I moved in, I was putting in between £100 and £150 a month at this time of year just to use it, and yes that was on a Prepayment Key Meter just like you have, (which works out about 1/3 more expensive than the best Direct Debit credit tariff). I hate to think what it would cost if I was running convector or oil filled radiators now.

    It was my own experience, in being in pretty much the same situation as you (I still am) which gave birth to this blog, and I was so impressed with them, and the money they saved me, that I began sharing my own experiences of Paraffin Inverter Heaters, one of which is heating my Living Room, even as I type this reply, and heating now costs me a more reasonable £40 – £45 per month in Kerosene during the mid-winter months, and that’s with the heaters set at 21c and 22c.

    First of all, in relation to the Oil Filled Radiators, such as those made by Delonghi, Dimplex etc. These are no more cheaper to run than the equivalent rated convector, fan heater or radiator, and a 1500w heater will consume 1500w of Electricity and cost the same to run, whether its a convector, fan heater, oil radiator or an old fashioned electric fire, and will all give out 1500w worth of heat. Oil Radiators do sometimes give the illusion that they are cheaper to run as they continue to emit heat, even when the Thermostat has clicked off, however when this happens you are just outputting heat which has already been paid for when the element was consuming power – its just that its first been transferred into oil as heat storage.

    The Paraffin Inverter heaters will certainly save you money over your Electricity costs, especially when heating more than one room and replacing more than one electric heater of any kind. However they will only save you money when they are run on cheap domestic heating oil (Kerosene). The manufacturers will always dictate that you should only use odourless or C1 premium paraffin in the heaters, however in the UK, this recommended fuel costs between £1.50 and £2.00 per litre, making it more expensive than Electricity!.

    However i’ve personally run two different models of these heaters on nothing but ordinary, standard, UK domestic heating oil as my main form of household heating since 2010 with no adverse effects, however you accept that do this at your own risk, but as you can read here, many others are also running inverter heaters on heating oil also, some longer than I have.

    Most heating oil distributors will only bulk deliver (500+ liters) to those with oil fired heating and garden tanks, however some places have their own pumps, where a customer can dispense the kerosene from the pump into their own container(s) on a self service basis. It may be worth googling or phoning around the heating oil brokers in your area to see whether any local ones will sell you Kero from the pump. Alternatively if you know or work with anybody who uses domestic oil fired central heating, then you could arrange to buy from them at cost, and pump it from their garden storage tank into containers, this way you can take advantage of using small quantities as you require, but still get the bulk price.

    Self service kerosene prices vary from area to area, however they are generally more expensive in smaller quantities, hence why its more cost effective to try and buy from somebody with oil heating (This way you can often get the oil for 50p – 55p per litre). But if not, I pay 70p per litre for my heating oil in small quantities from the pump which works out at around 7p per kw/h in actual heater running costs, compared to 16p per kw/h for heat produced from Pre-Payment tariff Electricity – still a significant saving.

    Suffice to say that its probably a good idea to make sure you have found a supply of kerosene available locally before buying the heater(s)!.

    I use a Corona Heater, and also one of the cheap Italian ones (Delivery time from Brico Bravo in Italy is around 3 days), and to be honest both heaters are as good as each other, both producing a similar amount of heat, and the Italian one still works flawlessly after 3 years of use despite being £100 cheaper than the Corona model.

    Large rooms are very difficult to heat, especially if they have a poor level of insulation and have a high ceiling. When its really cold (sub zero) outside you may need to initially heat the larger room using both heaters, and then when its warmed up, move one of the heaters to the bedroom, leaving one in the living area to maintain the heat level. It all depends on the room temperature when you return home, its possible that one may be enough but at least you will have the flexibility of using two in the large room if required, the best thing about these heaters is that they are just as portable as Electric Heaters, and can easily be moved from room to room if required.

    Heat, of course does rise, and so any heat in the bedroom below the larger living room above will certainly take the chill off it, and help to build up the heat on a background level, But I think expecting one inverter heater to heat a bedroom and the upper room at this time of year would be wishful thinking, these heaters output 3kw (3000 watts) worth of heat on their maximum setting, an average Bedroom requires around 1.5kw – 2kw of heating, and a large open plan living area, could require as much as 4kw – 6kw of heating input when its cold outside hence the suggestion that both heaters may be required to initially warm up the living room quickly when its freezing outside, and I also suspect that this is why your existing oil filled heater isn’t warming that room properly, its heat output (KW) is too small for the room size, and effectively the room is losing more heat than the existing heater can produce.

    So my advice would be to continue with your plan to buy two inverter heaters, one for the bedroom and one for the larger living area (with the option to temporarily use both heaters in the living area should you wish to heat it quickly when its really cold outside).

    Whatever you decide to do you will notice a big improvement using these heaters, not only will you be warm, but you will also be saving as much as 40% – 50% over using the Equivalent rated electric heaters, plus you will find the heat output will be more than the oil rads, with the added advantage that once ignited the heat from these is virtually instant, and blown out by a quiet, very efficient fan – almost as effective on a room to room basis as fixed warm air central heating.

    Just a final point about using these heaters in a bedroom, they are fine for heating the room prior to going to bed (I use one myself), or when using the bedroom to watch TV, kids doing homework etc, but just like any combustion heater such as Wood burners, Open Fires, Calor Gas Heaters etc, normal safety advice applies, i.e don’t run them whilst you are asleep. Electric Blankets are far more effective if being cold overnight is ever an issue, and cost very little to run.

    Some other tips which may also help. I’ve no idea if the “upside down”, design has an upper loft area, but if it has then make sure its well insulated and you have at least 200mm (ideally 270mm) of loft insulation material depth. If not, then you / your landlord can often get this done free of charge by British Gas (you don’t have to be a BG customer either). Also consider putting a small curtain over external doors to block draughts

    If you haven’t already done so, replace any lights with low energy ones, especially if you have any of those little ceiling recessed spotlights in halls, kitchen, bedrooms etc, as these guzzle energy. Replace with low energy CFL lamps or better still, LED types if budget allows.

    If you decide to stay in the property, then you should still consider going ahead with your plans to replace the Prepayment Meter with a credit one, even if you use Paraffin Heaters for heat. Even without Electric Heating in the equation Credit Customers pay around £200 per year less for their Electricity compared to Prepayment customers, and all of the best discount deals are offered to those paying by Direct Debit. On this basis, you will recoup the £60 charge to change out the meter fairly quickly, however haggle with the energy companies, some don’t charge for meter changes and others can be haggled to do it for free in order to get you as a new customer. Just make sure you are getting a good price from whoever you change over to, otherwise it defeats the object paying to meter change!.

    Hope that this info helps, let me know if you have any more questions.

  49. Paul says:

    Thanks so much for your advise. It’s great to know there’s genuine people willing to give time to help. Sometimes finding a way around getting ripped off by utility company’s can be quite hard work. I have a way to go but it’ll be worth it

    Am I right in thinking the cheaper Italian model has a timer on it? I would like it to come on before I get home from work, so it’s already heating up.

    The other advise was great too, electric blanket, light bulbs etc..
    Thanks so much again. I will hopefully order these in the next couple of days. Once iv confirmed a heating oil supplier. I’ll let you know how I get on.

  50. Paul says:

    Sorry. Just to confirm. Your cheaper heater. Is it the same as the one linked at the top of the page. I just want to make sure I get a tried and tested model.
    Regards, paul

  51. admin says:

    I bought my (cheaper) heater at the start of 2012 from Brico Bravo, and its a model SRE 300, this seems to be the same model that they are selling at the moment on their current listing. Yes, mine does have a digital 24 hour timer built into the control panel / display which can be set to come on before you return home. Looking at an Italian translation of the Ebay listing, this current heater also has the 24h timer feature, which again confirms that its still the identical heater to the one which I have.

    I believe that there is a place in Edenbridge which sells Heating Oil from the Pump, I have no idea how close this is to you, or the name of the Supplier but it may be worth shortlisting for further enquiries, if its close enough

  52. Mark says:

    Just a note for London people. I now get my kerosene at the pump at New Era in Barking. The current price (Jan 15) is 68.3 p/L.

    Barking Depot 0844 245 6661

    New Era Fuels Uk Ltd,
    Unit 14C, Fresh Wharf Estates,
    Highbridge Road, Barking,
    IG11 7BG
    Monday to Friday: 7AM to 4PM
    Saturday: 7AM to 11PM

  53. Paul says:

    At rye oils on the pump kerosene is 70p litre. It’s a long way from shepway. But if im visiting family it’s 16 miles. Anyone know anything as cheap but closer to the folkestone area. Thanks

  54. Paul says:

    Hi I just tried to order the brick bravo SRE 300 on ebey. It say it cannot be posted to my region or country. Am I doing something wrong?

  55. admin says:

    Hi Paul

    Yes, unfortunately it seems that Brico Bravo have very recently (the last week) pulled the plug on selling outside of Italy. I have heard a rumour that this is possibly because one or more vendors of this heater have complained that they are not happy at being undercut in their own territories by Brico Bravo and so Brico are now only selling to local customers in their own Country (Italy).

    At the moment this is just a Rumour which I have to point out, hasn’t been confirmed by Brico or anybody else. However it does stand as an obvious fact (just by browsing through their other Auction listings), that Brico are happy to sell virtually everything else listed on their various auctions to the UK, except these Heaters, so clearly something has happened to single out this product, out of potentially hundreds which they sell!. Brico Sales, themselves are also giving conflicting reasons as to why they have decided to do this, at least, this was the case when another visitor here, contacted them.

    All I can suggest is, that just like other potential customers, you first contact Brico via their Ebay listing simply to ask why they have suddenly decided to remove it from sale outside of Italy, and state that you are not happy with this decision as you were about to purchase 1 or 2 units from them. I’m currently in the process of contacting somebody Senior within Brico, in order to investigate exactly why they have decided to do this (rather than rely on third party rumours or the conflicting reasons given by their Sales Dept).

    I’m of the belief that the more people who can individually contact them , the more likely it will be that my complaint will taken seriously, or at the very minimum, it will at least highlight exactly how many sales, and how much revenue they are actively losing, and turning away due to their decision, if a constant stream of potential customers are pointing it out!.

    This is only a very recent u-turn in relation to Brico (which was only brought to my attention by another blog visitor just the other day), I bought my heater from them back in 2012, and have been promoting their auction page here ever since, so they have been selling them for at least the last Two years (possibly longer).

    In the meantime, until a time where Brico reverse their decision and begin selling to the rest of Europe again, or I find an alternative supplier this currently remains the cheapest source for the SRE300

    You can read the latest comments and news in relation to the Brico Bravo situation, on the comments section at the bottom of THIS PAGE

    Are you still considering going ahead with replacing your prepayment meter with a credit one and Direct Debit?, I would still do this, even if you proceed with buying these heaters. As a word to the wise, I would still avoid the big six energy suppliers and concentrate on one of the smaller independent suppliers. Regional prices and Consumption do vary and what is cheap for one consumer may not be competitive for another in a different area with a different usage pattern. But two Energy companies who are getting good reviews for both low prices and customer services are Extra Energy and Isupply, and if you wanted a fixed tariff then Eon and Scottish power are offering some good tariffs fixed until 2016.

    As usual, put your usage details into comparison sites to find the potential best deal for you, and try a few comparison sites, not just one!.

    Even whilst you are stuck on Prepayment, its still worth checking to see if there is a better tariff for you, whilst you decide what to do. Again use the comparison sites.

  56. Paul says:

    Hello admin. I read the other thread just before I saw your reply on here. Thank you for a speedy response. Yes it’s rather disappointing things have got complicated at the last minute. I have sent bricobravo message. Simply stating my disappointment in not being able to by a quality product. I asked them if a multiple purchase would help them reconsider selling to the UK. I want two, Robert on here wants one, and who knows who else.

    Anyway I will wait for a reply and move forward from there. Thanks again

  57. admin says:

    Interesting that you mentioned multiple purchases, I’d posted already this on the Brico Bravo Heater review page, but i’ll also leave it here too….

    Ok, just out of interest, would anybody be interested in a Group Buy for the SRE300 heater?. I know that this type of thing is done with success on various forums and it may well work as a solution here.

    It seems that Brico Bravo have cited problems with delivery as the reason behind no longer shipping these heaters outside of Italy, on at least one occasion. I still don’t really swallow this, given they sell similar heating appliances, as well as more delicate products on their many other auctions, but for now, and in the absence of any official response (Yet) I’ll go with it.

    I’m considering putting across a one-off offer to personally purchase, say Ten units, shrink wrapped on a pallet, I would then arrange the carriage from their Warehouse in Italy to the UK at my own expense using one of my own carriers – insured of course. Given the risk and liability, would be transferred to me and my carrier at the point of collection from Brico, there should be no reason for Brico to refuse the offer – (assuming of course shipping damage is the real reason behind the decision). All they need to do is to pack the order and have it ready for collection at the loading bay of their warehouse.

    Once the 10 units have arrived, I could ship them to the various interested parties using a next day carrier for about £6. Because people are, quite rightly, concerned about buying Ad-Hoc from the internet, in order to protect everybody they would be listed as a dedicated auction on Ebay and linked to from this Blog – so we are all protected.

    We probably don’t even need a firm order for all 10 pcs from here, as i’m sure that i’ll shift any remaining units on Ebay, given the current UK prices!.

    The only drawback to this, is that I would have to register with HMRC, and file a self assessment at the end of the year, even if I sell these heaters at cost on a goodwill basis and report zero profit, but since I already have to do this for other purposes, i’m happy to do this in relation to this buy, if it solves a problem and there is enough interest.

    Of course, if this idea doesn’t work there are various other options i’m working on. However I will await the reply which you get from Brico Bravo before putting any further ideas forward.

  58. Paul says:

    Hello admin. Just to add. Utility warehouse charge me 15.60 p kw per hour? ( the numbers are right but not sure if it stands for pence). It is just a standard charge. No evening rate. The daily standing charge is 23p. I switched to them when I moved in because it was slightly cheaper than EDF. Also with them I have my home phone, broadband £23.29 per mnth and mobile ( 600 mins talk, 500mb) £12.50 per mnth. A cash back card. ( haven’t used that yet). They paid early redemption costs for me to move from Three. Apparently I am not in any sort of a contract with the utility warehouse, which is a nice change.

    Sorry back on topic. I have a double gold package with the utility ware house. If i change my energy provider this will not be affected. If I changed to a standard metre with them they would charge me £66 engineering costs and a deposit of £180. This they hold for year depending on my track record.

    Im not pleased with this. Im going to see who wants me more and will charge less. I looked on a compare website. By estimating for a normal metre the smaller companies do come out better. You are right
    Thanks again for advise.

  59. Paul says:

    I would definitely be interested for two! If all is secure and relatively straight forward. Can’t quite work out how individual payment would be made with a bulk buy on ebay yet. But I do only have basic knowledge of it.

  60. admin says:

    Hi Paul,

    15.6p per kw/h isn’t excessive, but i’m sure that you could get a better rate once you are on a credit meter – Prepayment tariffs are the highest around as they don’t qualify for any discounts. Generally the UK average Direct Debit tariff rate for Electricity is around 12p per kw/h but some of the smaller companies are now even dropping below this.

    To put it into prospective, if you purchase Kerosene and use these Inverter Heaters for your room heating, then based on 70p per litre for the heating oil it will effectively cost you around 7p per kw/h to heat your rooms, which is less than half of the price of plugging in an Electric Heater – which would cost you 15.6p per kw/h on your current tariff.

    I’ve done a test quote with Ecotricity (who I use) using a random Shepway postal code, and I was offered a tariff of 14.29p per Kw/H and a standing charge of 18.9p per day on prepayment, so there is currently potential for you to save money even without changing your meter.

    I’ve also run a test comparison for you, using the UK Power comparison website, again using a Shepway postcode, and I was offered the following

    Utilita – Smart Energy Plus – 14.16p per kw/h and 13.9p per day standing charge

    British Gas (Fixed Price Until June 2016) – 13.32p per kw/h and 26p per day standing charge

    These are all of the results which I got from my test comparison run on UK Power, using a CT19 postal code and an average use of 5000 units (KWH) per year

    (Hopefully this link will still work when you read it)

    As you can see, there are several tariffs which are cheaper than your Utility Warehouse one, even based on Prepayment and all of which will save you money and some are quite reasonable in your region, bearing in mind that you wouldn’t have to pay to get the meter changed, nor have to leave the deposit. Plus, if you eventually changed over to Kerosene heating, and made some other small energy saving changes, then your Electricity usage during the Winter months, would reduce quite significantly anyway.

    I believe that British Gas also offer a USB adaptor, which plugs into your PC and allows you to top up the Key over the internet using a credit / debit card – so you can top up at home, without having to go out to the Paypoint outlet to top it up, and although their prepayment tariff has a slightly higher standing charge than Utility Warehouse, its kw/h rate is lower, so you would quickly recoup that small difference through your daily usage, plus your prepayment tariff would be fixed until June 2016.

  61. Ian Fossett says:

    Hi I just ordered this heater in the UK http://www.energybulbs.co.uk/zibro+3.2kw+laser+paraffin+heater/1996031182
    Seems pretty good value the price includes VAT and delivery. I have seen the same heater for £250+ so it seems very good value. I have ordered some C1 paraffin to start with , has anyone any thought about mixing C1 with 28 sec Kero . Sort of as a halfway house as I am a little cautious about running it on just kero . Thanks for a great web site by the way.

  62. admin says:

    Hi Ian

    Thanks for taking the time to post on the blog and share your find. Yes, I agree its a very good price for the heater, in fact its quite possibly the cheapest UK sourced heater that I have seen, and so i’m sure that it will be useful for others.

    In relation to your comment regarding C1 and Domestic Kerosene, both come from exactly the same base fuels and are part of exactly the same family, however C1 / Odour Free Kerosene products are more refined in order to burn cleaner and so produce a reduced level of odour. Years ago this type of product used to be sold as ‘Aladdin Pink’ and ‘Aladdin Blue’, although back then, the cost wasn’t excessive its only recently its started attracting a £1+ litre price premium over its domestic counterparts.

    By mixing a C1 Premium product with any quantity of standard Kerosene basically would remove any odour free qualities from the Premium fuel and doing so wouldn’t really carry any advantages or differences that I can see, other than making the Domestic Heating Oil cost more per litre, than using it neat!. Plus you would still invalidate your warranty by adding 50% content just the same as you would at 100%

    I can’t speak for the Zibro model or say that it would be OK on other fuel, because I personally haven’t tried it, however I do use domestic kerosene in a more expensive (£250+) Corona model and also the cheaper SRE-300 Heater (previously sold by Brico Bravo) for over 3 years, with no problems whatsoever. In fact the SRE-300 has never even tasted C1 / Premium Kero but it still works flawlessly. These are also my main / only form of heating, so they do get used on a daily basis.

    However, if you want to protect your warranty, or are concerned about using anything but the recommended fuel in your heater, then I fully respect and encourage that. However this blog is largely about saving money on heating costs, and once your fuel cost for these heaters goes over about £1.10 per litre, then it actually becomes more expensive to use them, than plugging in a £8 Argos Fan Heater. There are some quite good Electricity Tariffs around at the moment, and using one of those Tariffs to heat with, would generally work out cheaper than premium fuel burned in an Inverter Heater.

    Of course it all depends on what you pay for your Premium fuel. But i’ve seen prices of £1.50 for bulk bought pre-packaged premium Fuel (Caldo) which equates to 15p per kw/h when burned in one of these heaters. If your kw/h price for Electricity is lower than your equiv fuel price, then buying an Inverter heater would work out prohibitively expensive. In comparison, 28 second Heating Oil Kerosene, only costs 6p – 7p per Kw/h (assuming an oil buy price of 60p – 70p per litre) – far cheaper than all Electricity Tariffs.

    It may be that you have other reasons for using this heater, other than saving money or reducing your overall heating costs. However, to make Inverter Heaters a more attractive option than conventional forms of heating, it really can only be done by using the cheaper domestic fuel – albeit accepting the risks and loss of manufacturers warranty.

  63. Neil says:

    Hi i have been reading this blog and thought i would let you know the reply i got from bricobravo when i asked them about posting inverter heaters to England.
    Basically the reply said that the postage charge would be 25 – 30 euros and that it was possible. I contacted them through their ebay listing in their own country. If they are willing to post to England they might consider using ebay UK again but get in touch with them anyway if you want one.

    If anyone knows of a 28 sec oil supplier that has a pump for small quantities in the County Durham/North Yorkshire Border area i would be most grateful if you could post it on here please.

  64. admin says:

    Hi Neil,

    Thanks for adding weight to our cause by contacting Brico Bravo directly, the reply that you got, gives a glimmer of hope for those wanting to buy the original heater, certainly its better than the blunt “Sorry we are no longer shipping to the UK” which others have received from them earlier. Perhaps they are beginning to realise that they have cut off a huge chunk of business by not shipping outside of their native Italy, I know that several people in the UK who have previously bought from there, and that’s just visitors to this blog, there must be many more out there who bought from their UK Ebay listing directly.

    In relation to your second question regarding Kerosene. I don’t know the area, and this is just second hand information gained from months trawling the internet for Kero suppliers for others, however I believe there is / was a Garden Centre on the Thinford Inn Roundabout which sells / used to sell from the Pump. I’m not sure whether its standard Paraffin or Kerosene (both will work fine in these heaters), but it may be worth a phone call, if you can trace the place from the description.

    This place may also be able to help, as they advertise a “Cash and Carry Service” for customers who want to pick up their own Soild Fuel and Fuel-Oil products.


    I believe that some Harvest Energy petrol stations also sell Kero too, it may be worth a call to any which are local, to see whether they can help.

  65. Paul says:

    Hello my two zibro lc-32 heaters arrived today. They are made by toyotomi. I got them online from energy bulbs. £171 each, free next day delivery.

    I nipped up to homebase, got 4ltrs c1 parrafin. Worked out £1.90 per ltr!! But I just had to try them out until i get kerosene.

    Fired them up. One down stairs and one up about an hour ago on “save” setting for 18c. The starting room temp when I got in was 7c. Now I am bathing in 18c. My upstairs room is quite large with a high ceiling.

    With my very wasteful oil filled electric radiators I could still see my breath after 2 hours. Buy which time it was bed time.

    The next step is kerosene. Has anyone tried it with this model or make? Thanks to all involved on this website. It’s been extremely useful and hopefully cost saving…so far so good.

  66. admin says:

    Well it didn’t take long for Energy Bulbs to increase their prices, since we started promoting them here!. In just over a week the price of this heater has now increased from £171 to £190.99.

    Please keep us informed if you find this, or a similar heater for Sale at a lower price and I will update the page and replace the link accordingly.

  67. Jon Porter says:

    Hi,Nice to see blog going strong. I asked a local supplier about ibc containers and told no probs delivering to one as long as its in good nick and not plumbed in to any heating system . I see compass fuels advertise delivering in one , preston area i think, on another note a couple weeks ago being curious i dragged an old aladdin wick heater out the shed and cleaned it all up, and filled with kero and it burned exellent ,nice blue flame ,i was surprised,not recomended ?mm,keep up great blog ,jon.

  68. admin says:

    Hi Jon,

    Yes, the IBC idea often works if you have the space for one, it all depends on the discretion of the fuel delivery company, however fortunately most are happy to take the money for a 500L / 1000L delivery regardless of whether its a bunded fuel tank or an IBC. I think some of the refusals i’ve heard about in the past, are in relation to companies worried about the risk of rebated fuels being used illegally in diesel vehicles, hence why they chose to not deliver to a tank which isn’t fixed or plumbed and can be decanted from easily. Its a daft, yet at the same time, understandable philosophy, but again it depends on the individual delivery company and their policies. I found that Fuel distributors based around rural areas will be more inclined to deliver to IBC’s as this is often the method that farms take their onsite fuel deliveries.

    I do stand by my original advice on not using Kero for Wick Heaters, although C1 Paraffin and Kero are from the exact same family, C1 is more refined, and causes less soot particles to form, compared to Kero. Although this is rarely a problem in the modern injection catalysts used in the Inverter Heaters, it will eventually cause premature wear and require more frequent replacement of the wick, and if used for long / regular periods, it may also cause a layer of soot to form on nearby objects.

    The original indoor or greenhouse paraffin heaters were designed to run on a fuel which back then, was called ‘Aladdin Blue’ or ‘Aladdin Pink’ and was basically the same fuel that is now marketed as C1 or Premium Paraffin (albeit thirty years ago it was magically about ten times cheaper, than its re-marketed packaged version is sold at today!)

    Individual experience in respect of Kero in wick type heaters will vary depending on the type of heater, how refined the Kero is, and how often its used, but again, its not something I personally promote due to problems encountered myself.

  69. Jon Porter says:

    Totally agree with u there, dont think the wick would last long and probable health issues .jon

  70. peter says:

    50p per litre this morning at a Rodgers top road brown edge staffs

  71. jerry says:

    Hello again! Just a quick update on the sre300 inverter heater i bought last year. I’ve been running it on kerosene since I bought it and it’s still going strong. All I’ve done is clean out the filter with a vacuum cleaner as recommended in the instructions, and that’s it. I’m still using the orange mr. Funnel to filter the fuel, but not putting in any additives etc. I found that there’s a weakness in the top of the fuel thank around the screw cap…I removed the cap to fill the tank and the retaining seal came loose, resulting in a leak. I managed to repair it with fuel tank repair compund however and it’s working fine again. Really pleased with the heater so far…although I ‘m probably tempting fate here and it’ll probably pack up this weekend! Thanks for the valued advice last year admin. Really appreciated.

  72. admin says:

    @Peter, Thanks for the information, that isn’t too far away from me, and will save me the trip to Stoddards, at Cheadle, it should save a few ££’s to!.

    @Jerry, thanks for the update, glad to hear that the heater is still going strong.

  73. peter says:

    I use the 28sec oil in a corona wick heater, a fryside rippingales heater and a valor wick heater, slight smell on starting up but that’s all.thinking about buying a invertor.not had to change a wick yet only on the more modern corona with a fibreglass wick, the 50 yearold fryside heater although uses a fibrglass wick but its no problem with 28sec heating oil.the valor cloth wick no problem.

  74. admin says:

    Hi Peter,

    Let me just check that I have the correct place for the oil, is this A.E Rodgers, at the side of Top Road which looks like its also a garage for servicing and repairing vehicles?. I called tonight after work, but the place looked closed when I pulled in, perhaps i’d missed them as it was getting late. I just wanted to double check I had the right place before making a return journey.

  75. peter says:

    yes that is it, its open mon afternoon from 2, and everyday including sat morning, it usually opened till 7 at night, , he repairs wagons and takes them for tests so he might not have been in but is wife is, sat morn he is always there, I sometimes go up and leave drums with his wife and then pick up, I go up every week , but sat morn he is always in, where are you comeing from.

  76. peter says:

    if you are stuck I can always get you a container full, I live near brown edge if its not out of your way

  77. admin says:

    I live just a few miles outside of Leek, so its very local to me, I work shifts so its just a matter of dropping in there on an Afternoon off, but thanks for the kind offer. It might be an idea for you to mention to the owner that they could do well to advertise their Heating Oil availability a bit more locally, as I was previously traveling over to Manchester for Kero before finding Stoddards, but finding out that there is a supplier who is just up the road is even better as I like to support local businesses. I wouldn’t have ever known about Rodgers’ selling heating oil if you hadn’t have mentioned them here, and I’ve driven past them many times.

  78. peter says:

    he uses it himself for his central heating so not really bothered about selling loads,

  79. peter says:

    if you use heating oil in a modern fibreglass wick heater,dont burn it dry like you would with ordinary paraffin/it ruins the wick so always keep wick wet.my corona wick as lasted 6 years now.before that 2 every year with burning dry

  80. admin says:

    Oh ok, I thought they were doing fuel retailing. I use two of these Heaters as a sole form household heating, so I tend to pick up 100 – 125 litres at a time during the Winter months and I also have a couple of neighbours who have just started using these heaters on my advice and they too, are looking for a local supplier but I think we may overwhelm him if he is just siphoning the odd container from out of his own personal oil tank, perhaps people turning up for 100+ litres at a time isn’t the way that he wants to go, especially if he wants to keep it low key. But thanks for the information.

  81. peter says:

    yes he only sells the odd 25litres its out of his tank ,did not know you wanted that amount,ill ask him though if he can get those 45 gallon drums of heating oil cheap.

  82. admin says:

    Yes, running a couple of these heaters for domestic heating does tend to put me in a middle ground situation, in real terms 100-ish litres isn’t enough to get the attention or spark the interest of the large fuel brokers who are only interested in dumping 1000 litres into a tank in your back garden, but its a little bit too much in one go for somebody to sell on through decanting their own heating tank, and it would only take several people seeing it on the blog and being local enough, to visit him for a similar quantity and he would soon be running short for himself!.

    Unfortunately I don’t have the means of transporting / handling or storing entire drums, so collecting in an estate car with several 25 litre containers is the only option, but thanks again for the offer.

  83. peter says:

    do the inverters but out any more heat than my 3.2k corona wick heater or my favourite rippingales fryside heater which puts out 3kh. the fryside one uses about half the paraffin as well and you turn it down via a fuel restrict valve, can get 0ver 50hours on low setting,

  84. admin says:

    3.2kw of heat is exactly the same, regardless of whether its produced by a radiant wick style heater, or a new inverter heater so on a like for like basis the heat output is exactly the same, its just the method of delivery which changes. I chose the inverter heater, due to the fact that its built in fan, warms an open plan room very quickly from cold, and the inverter heater is more like a paraffin fueled fan heater in that respect.

    I live in an old cottage with stone walls and very little insulation, so in Winter the room temperature can be as low as 7c or 8c. Within about 25 minutes the Inverter Heater has warmed the room to about 18c, and it reaches 21c within about 45 minutes, so I just set the Electronic Timer to switch the heater on Automatically, around 30 minutes before I get in from work, and the room is nicely warm.

    The Electronic Controls include a digital thermostat, so you can set the desired temperature, and once that temperature is reached the heater will automatically vary its heat output in real time, between 800w and 3200w according to the changes in room temperature, this is similar to the manual valve adjustment that you describe, but the heater changes the heat output and fan speed automatically based on its environment, so if you need 1600w to keep the room warm, then it will adjust itself to put out 1600w worth of heat, if a door is opened and the temperature drops suddenly, then the heater will switch back to 3200w until the room temperature is back up to the setting.

    I find with my own heaters, that they will boost at full power up to about 19c – 20c, then reduce to about half power until 21c is reached, at which point they will switch down to their lowest setting (800w) in order to keep the room at a steady 21c. If you wish you can also select an ‘ECO’ setting which actually cycles the heater on / off in a similar way to an Electric Heater, so when the room temp is reached the heater switches itself off, but if the temperature drops then it will ignite and run until the temperature is reached.

    I’ve not been able to get an hourly figure from a tank full because my own use is variable, however the manufacturers’ manual states 48 hours when run on its lowest setting. Monetary terms is where I do see the biggest reduction, around £40 a month in Oil spend, compared to £90 – £120 a month on Economy 7 with the Storage Heating, and with oil retailing at around 10p – 12p per litre cheaper this year, I hope those savings will reduce that £40 / month spend, a little bit further this Winter.

    The biggest savings, are of course, for those switching to these types of heaters for the first time, as a replacement for more expensive Electric or LPG Heating. Whether the outlay required for an Inverter Heater purchase to replace an existing radiant or wick style heater(s) will be enough to justify changing to an inverter in your own circumstances depends on whether the features i’ve mentioned will be of any use to you, but the heat output won’t be any different, but thanks to the Fan it will deliver and circulate the heat a little bit quicker.

  85. peter says:

    mine keep rooms at about 23 to 25/26 so so I turn it down, got a woodburner as well but that costs a lot if u buy wood and are at home 24/7, was thinking of a invertor as sometimes after running my paraffin for a couple of days I get a dry throat even with a window a bit open, thought of a water bowl, do u have that trouble with a invertor

  86. admin says:

    No, i’ve never suffered any symptoms like that. You get a short whiff of a Kerosene type smell when the heater first ignites, and then again when it is shut down, but it only lasts about a minute. I have several air bricks in the living area, but when running in the smaller bedroom, I either open the trickle vents on the window, or open the window just a tiny bit, as this is standard advice when running any heater without an external flue, including portable calor types. I also have a battery operated CO2 detector for peace of mind, although in four years, this has never triggered and the Invertor heaters also have CO2 shutdown built in.

  87. peter says:

    I only get the dry throat with the older style fryside heater so put that away today for emergencies, now using the modern corona one,never had any trouble with that one , ive had it about 10 yearsnow but if it needs a new wick soon instead of buying one for about 20 odd pounds will buy a invertor, which is the best model in your opinion. don’t forget if u get stuck ive usually got a spare 20 odd litres u can have,

  88. admin says:

    Corona, Zibro, Ruby, Tayotomi are all good brands for Inverter Heaters and all offer a 3.0kw / 3.2kw model in their range, there are also quite a few unbranded models imported from China which in my opinion are just as good – “Kero” and “Tayosan” being two examples. I personally use a Corona 3016 Inverter Heater which I purchased in late 2010, which is still going strong, the following year I took a gamble and purchased a cheaper Chinese built Inverter Heater from an Italian vendor, branded ‘Kero SRE 300’, other than being a year newer, its had just as much use as the Corona and is still working 100% and at the time it was also £100 cheaper than the Corona, and in my personal opinion and experience, is just as good both in use and build quality as the more expensive heater.

    The Corona 3016 doesn’t seem to be in production any longer, but the equiv model from the latest range is called the Corona 5006 Inverter Heater it is also the most expensive of the Inverter Heaters.

    The Italian Vendor of the Cheaper Chinese ‘Kero’ model which I purchased – Brico Bravo is no longer willing / able to ship this heater to the UK (The rumour is that a UK vendor spat their dummy out over Brico Bravo undercutting them) and currently the UK vendors seem to be selling the same heater for about £80 more than Brico Bravo, so given I know what this heater still sells for elsewhere, I won’t promote them because my personal opinion is that its £80 overpriced over here.

    However, this Evening I have managed to find another Italian Vendor who is selling a Zibro SRE 302 Inverter Heater for £136.34 + £30.38 Shipping making the total cost of the heater £166.72 delivered, at the time of typing this, they are also offering a £10 discount via a pop up to new customers, so it could be possible to get it for £156.72. Either way, £166.72 is the lowest price i’ve been able to find on any Inverter Heater available for delivery to the UK currently. (There is no import duty or vat to pay when buying goods from Italy)

    You can also buy a Zibro LC-32 Inverter for £198.95 from a UK Vendor, currently they are also offering a 5% Discount for New Customers, so it will bring that price down a little bit. I’ve never used one of these LC-32 heaters myself and so i’m unable to write any review or give an opinion on it, however a few people who have commented above, have bought this model and seemed to be happy with it and its got a good reputation.

    Note that you will invalidate the manufacturers’ warranty when running any new heater on cheap paraffin or heating oil. I will echo points that i’ve made previously, in that buying the premium fuel to run these inverter heaters on, will actually make them uneconomical, largely because using an Electric Heater or even a Calor LPG Fire will work out much cheaper to run on a per KW/H basis, than burning Premium Paraffin which sells for around £1.50 – £2.00 a litre

    All I can say in respect of the whole warranty and premium fuel debate is that I have run my two heaters on nothing but domestic kerosene since they were new, and now 4 – 5 years later they still work just fine, and effectively I’ve saved probably the cost of replacing them twice over, with the money i’ve saved on using heating oil instead of the recommended premium paraffin, however I do have to point out clearly to anybody reading this, that if you do this, then you accept the risk and invalidate the warranty on the heater.

  89. peter says:

    thank you that is just what I neaded to no

  90. peter says:

    been looking.thinking about the zipro one from Italy, just wundered why there are different models of zipro, do they perform all the same

  91. admin says:

    Generally there can just be subtle differences between the control layout and cosmetic appearance, or a company can produce two different tiers of product, one entry level product made out in China, and another premium product made in Japan, with a premium price to match. I’m not saying that this is what Zibro are doing, but it does seem that the current SRE302 model from the Italian Vendor is very similar to the Kero SRE 300 which I own, which is made in China (according to the label) not to mention sharing the “SRE” in the model numbers. The world of Electronic Appliances is very similar to Cars, i.e – VW & Audi sold at a premium price, but Skoda & Seat sold at a reduced price but essentially the same product just made to look differently and produced in a different Factory to a lower budget.

    Just for comparison purposes (They still don’t ship to the UK) Here is the Brico Bravo SRE300 Inverter, i’m sure that you will agree that it looks very similar to the Zibro SRE302 available from the Italian Vendor, and my own suspicion is that the whole SRE range are all made in by the same Chinese factory, before being re-branded and used as Entry level products for several manufacturers.

  92. peter says:

    ive found that by filtering the heating oil throgh some charcoal via a coffee filter to hold it, and place in a funnel any smell etc is greatly reduced, i then filter through a mr funnel, i use charcoal from pet shop, as i make a few terarriums i put it above gravel to filter the water for delicate plants,it recycles in a seeled terarrium removeing everything nastie, just useing it today in a rippingilles fryside heater from the 40,s i think, its glowing red hot as i type, no smell or fumes,

  93. peter says:

    the italy zipro one you have to wait 2/3 weeks for them to get it in there warehouse then another 4/5 days for delivery, so if you order now might get it just before xmas, not bothering with that one although they offered 10pounds off,

  94. admin says:

    Looks like Brico Bravo have seen sense (as well as the big gap in the market that they left last year), and started Shipping the Inverter Heaters to the UK again, £146.85 inc delivery here either way i’d get in there quick and get one ordered, as they didn’t last long last year!

  95. peter says:

    there are 2 on ebay off this seller one 140 odd and one 150 odd are they the same heater,the cheap one says inverter and the other one a sre 300

  96. admin says:

    They both look identical in the pictures and description, however the SRE300 is the one I bought a few years ago

  97. peter says:

    i had a word with Allen who owns the garage on top road, he says if you call in with 4 drums he will let you have some once a month if that helps you, he just said when you come say peter sent you then he will no who you are,if you took 5 drums im sure it would be ok, On a other note a friend use to own a petrol station and sold parraffin a couple of years ago out of the pump next to his petrol, i asked him what it was and lo and behold it was 28 sec heating oil,

  98. jerry says:

    Really useful information from peter on the use of modern wick heaters with kerosene. Thanks! As i’ve said before, i’m really happy with the sre300 i bought kast year, but may now invest in a modern corona wick heater which don’t appear to be as technologically complex as the inverters so may be less prone to long term breakdown. As you’re effectively buying an inverter without a warranty it’s worth considering. I’m really surprised but relieved to learn that there’s no smell from the wicks burning kerosene. I recently read an article in an old ‘which’ magazine from 1980, examining heating costs. They found that around half of so called ‘premium paraffin’ being sold from the pump was in fact 28 sec. oil. I bet most people didn’t even notice

  99. peter says:

    just bought the sre 300

  100. jerry says:

    Apologies, the ‘Which’ article was from 1969, and found that around a quarter of premium paraffin sampled was actually standard 28 sec, not half. Oops!
    The inverter being sold on ebay by bricobravo appears to be a slightly different design from the one i bought last year…and only one sold so far!

  101. admin says:

    Hi Jerry, I imagine that there are laws against passing off regular heating oil as premium fuel these days, years ago some dodgy forecourts in rural areas used to “water down” diesel with Kerosene or mix in a bit of Red Diesel into their main tanks so i’m not surprised that “Which” found the same thing happening back in the 60s and 70s with burning oil but I think that has been stamped out these days. One way of comparing the two fuels these days is by looking at the MSDS Datasheet, and there are subtle differences, but not enough to make any real difference in the application that we use the fuel in, the biggest difference between the two is largely down to the odour removing process used to produce the premium stuff, but that is only really noticed when burned in lamps.

    But at the end of the Day, it is all Kerosene. Premium Kerosene, Regular Heating Oil Kerosene, even Jet A1 which is used in Helicoptors and Small light aircraft will all happily burn in our heaters and the MSDS for them will all show the same CAS number for the base fuel, its just the amount of refining which changes between the different fuels, and Premium Kerosene or Premium Paraffin is just higher graded Kero, which has gone through an additional refining process to remove a lot of the odour, and the extra refining removes a bit more sulphur – not that there is a lot of Sulphur in any fuel to start with, due to strict EU regulations since the mid 90s.

    There are still places selling Paraffin, which is actually 28 second heating oil. Again, they are the same thing – Kerosene is basically the American word for what we know as Paraffin. Prior to using Stoddards at Cheadle, I used to visit a Fuel Broker to buy my fuel. They had several pumps side by side, dispensing everything from Industrial solvents and Red Diesel to Heating Oil and paraffin. I used to buy three containers from the Paraffin pump and Three from the Kerosene pump, amazingly when decanted into two glass containers and placed side by side the two fuels were indentical in smell and colour and although I have nothing to prove it, I wouldn’t be surprised if both pumps weren’t fed from the same underground tank.

    What Peter has described is basically a domestic version of the odour removing process, filtering through Charcoal, I believe, removes a lot of the odour and is clearly a cheap and easy DIY method of making Odour reduced fuel from domestic heating oil without the silly prices of the pre packaged stuff and so is well worth trying.

  102. jerry says:

    I was just about to buy another sre300 from bricobravo on ebay, and realised that it is not the same ebay seller that I bought from last year. The seller of the inverters on ebay is “bricobravo_eu”, while the one i bought the sre300 from in nov 2014 was simply “bricobravo”. “Bricobravo_eu” has no recent feedback, and looks like it has not traded since 2011, whereas “bricobravo” has feedback from this week. Confused!!! I may wait until feedback’s left for this company before I take the plunge.

  103. admin says:

    You are right to be cautious but I think you are worrying unnecessarily. The company contact and address details on the Ebay (Bricobravo_eu) listing match those on the Brico Bravo website. They also list an email address of helpdesk@bricobravo.eu on this current Ebay listing and the WHOIS for the bricobravo.eu domain registration shows that it is registered to Brico Bravo SRL at their genuine trading address in Italy, a few months back.

    Brico Bravo are a big company, a bit like Argos is in the UK, and I imagine *if* one of their old Ebay account from 2011 had been hacked or otherwise hijacked and populated with over 400 items by a person or persons unknown, they would be aware of it by now. Its really not that unusual for a large company to have multiple trading identities, and perhaps they have resurrected the old “EU” side of Ebay and registered the .eu domain in order to keep all of their export business separate from their domestic trade, especially given the whole sour grapes fiasco last year!. If nothing else the two different accounts would allow the various products to be listed with two different currencies and in two different languages.

    If things did go wrong, then purchases done in the EU via Ebay & Paypal are just as protected as those done in the UK, so if the item is fake, poor quality or doesn’t turn up, then you can file a dispute, and get a refund just the same as you would from any other UK vendor.

    Either way, there have now been 3 purchases for the heater on that listing, and no doubt with over 400 other items also listed, it won’t be long before recent feedback begins appearing. Give it a week or so, and i’m sure that we’ll see that its genuine.

  104. peter says:

    just read this on description of sre 300 inverter.IMPORTANT! This kind of heater can work with any type or brand of liquid fuel (isoparaffin,it was on amazon under product description, mine should arrive this week,

  105. peter says:

    it arrived this afternoon, filled it up with heating oil, pressed start and away it went, no smell at all as there is a deodarant light on it, its preset at 20 so ive left it alone, it went up to 20 from about 14 and its settled there, the fan not so vigorouse as when it was getting to 20deg, now do i just leave it at this, will it adjust automatically or have got to start messing with the ,save,min,auto buttons, i no if i want it higher temp i will have to adjust but 20 fine for me, it says on instructions to use kerosene, so guarantee might be ok on this, it even came with a euro plug adapter, very pleased at the moment,

  106. admin says:

    Glad that it arrived OK, hopefully this will give peace of mind to others who want to buy from this listing too, it might be a good idea to leave feedback on E’bay once you are satisfied that its OK, as that is obviously what was causing the concern in Jerry’s post.

    The SRE300 has various modes of operation, you can leave it set at the desired temperature, and once that temperature is reached, the heater will switch down to its lowest heat output (800w) but run continuously at a low fan speed keeping a low level of back ground heat which should hopefully keep the room at the set temperature, however it will automatically switch itself back up to a higher heat and fan output if the room should cool significantly below the set temperature. This is the mode that you have it set on at the moment.

    Alternatively you can select “Save”, and the heater will automatically switch itself off completely once the temperature is reached, and then switch itself back on again when the temperature drops, this is similar to the cycling done by a thermostat in a conventional convector heater.

    It all depends how much heat is lost from the room, I live in a 1890’s built poorly insulated farmhouse so in ‘Save’ mode the heater switches off and on every 5 – 10 minutes or so anyway – such is the huge heat loss from the fabric of the building, and so the frequent cycling on/off can become annoying and defeat the object of saving kero, so I leave it in Auto mode. In a better insulated building then “Save” mode may be better as it will only be turning itself on and off two or three times an hour, and of course when the heater is off, its burning no oil at all so that mode, will be much better in fuel saving (provided the room holds the heat long enough to make it viable).

    I suppose you have to try each mode to see what works best for you, as every building is different.

    I think the European retailers are a bit more open minded, or are turning a blind eye to the grade of Kerosene used in the heaters (Certainly the fuels our European counterparts are using is very variable with several French users professing to running them on a cheap Spirit based Solvent called Shellsol D60 as well as the aforementioned Jet A1 obtained from airfields), at least I don’t see the bold “Premium Paraffin Only” warning on the EU websites, unlike the UK retailers who have decided to add the warning this season. Whether running the SRE300 on ordinary heating oil will become a topic or issue if you try and return it back to Brico for any warranty work will be the acid test, so probably best to assume that it won’t be covered if it is used on Standard Heating Oil, however what is written in the user manual will of course be a useful ‘defence’ should that problem ever arise.

  107. admin says:

    Hmmm, looks like the Ebay listing for the Inverters have now been removed although all of their other listings, for hundreds of other products remain, I guess the whole problem from last year has arisen again – I had a feeling that it would. Looks like you were right to buy when you did Peter.

  108. peter says:

    its in the kitchen with a dog flap near it,dogs in/out all the time so ill leave it how it is, its kept it at 20deg since 3 oclock,front room open, ive let the multifuel stove go out and its keeping that room warm as well, it usually costs me 30 pound to heat one room with the multifuel stove 7 days a week and if I use calor gas or leccy 15pds to keep kitchen warm so aprox45 pounds for heating and aprox 20 pounds a week lecy for lights etc, so ill save 15pounds minus paraffin for one room and if it saves me 1 bag of coal a week theres over 10pouns saved,if I use a gallon a day 2.50 it will only cost me aprox 17.50 on full power which might heat kitchen and front room, so might save nearly 25/30pounds a week.just noticed like you said. advert on ebay ended,

  109. Brian Rothbart says:

    This is my first time on this blog forum. Very informative and much appreciated.

    I have a question – hope it is not a stupid one:

    Once these paraffin heaters start up, I understand that you need a continuous supply of electricity to run the fan. Where we live, power outages are common. Would it be possible to hook up the paraffin heater to a UPS so when our power goes down, the UPS would supply the energy to run the fan?


  110. jerry says:

    Hello again, I bought an sre300 last night off ebay from the bricobravo_eu seller for £146 inc. delivery, and as you say, it’s now been taken off. It’ll be interesting to see if they honour the sale or cancel. It’s showing as ‘paid but not sent’ at the moment. They may have realised it’s not economically viable to include delivery at that price and are reassessing their options. We may see it back on with a £30 delivery charge or similar.

  111. admin says:

    Hi Brian

    Yes, it should be possible to run the heater from a UPS, the combined continuous wattage of the fan, fuel pump and control panel run to around 22 watts – 32 watts so its not a huge load, but the duration would of course depend on the size of the UPS, and the battery capacity / condition as to how long it would actually run for, under a power failure condition.

    The Inverter Heaters do have a built in heating element, rated at around 600w – 700w which preheats the chamber when the heater is first switched on, to help with ignition and combustion from ‘cold’ (very similar principle to the glow plugs in a diesel car), this element only runs for less than one minute as a preheat though, and won’t be a factor if the outage occurs when the heater is already running. However you may like to size the UPS accordingly to at least 1000va – 1200va, just in case you need to start the heater from cold during a power failure.

    I have friends who use an inverter heater in a caravan – powered from a 12v leisure battery and mains inverter, obviously there is a much higher capacity available from a large leisure battery but the UPS principle is the same, and their heater runs perfectly fine from this configuration.

    Alternatively, there is also the radiant versions of the Kero heaters available, they lack the features of the Inverter Heater and are more basic, but they don’t require any mains supply at all.

  112. peter says:

    ive had mine now 7 days, ive only used i bag of coal on woodburner so saved 16pds on coal and used 10pds heating oil aprox, so im at least 20pounds a week better off and warm, befor i used a wick paraffin heater, brilliant but only heated the room it was in, where as this blows it from kitchen to liveing room, e4 code on my model is when i knock it not fuel related so a few veriations on models. The air quality is normal as well where i use to worry on the other model i had but that never smelt either.

  113. peter says:

    still cannot get more than about 14/16 hours out of a tankful no matter what mode its on, ie save min or auto if temp set to 21. now I can see if I set it low temp on save it would save fuel as it would not be on, in min it still goes to 21 and so does auto.so to get 40 odd hours out of a tankful do u set the temp very very low and put it on min.I can not see any benefit by doing that only to save fuel and no heating hardly.

  114. admin says:

    Having just measured roughly what my SRE300 uses, using a glass measuring beaker, I can say that on its highest setting, running continuously it used approx 340ml, whilst on its lowest setting, again running continuously, it consumed a little over 100ml. These are slightly higher figures than the manual, which state 0.3L (300ml) per hour on high, and 0.07 (70ml) for low, but like MPG figures on cars, the real world consumption data, is probably going to be slightly higher than a lab environment, consisting of perfect conditions which will make up the figures used on the specification.

    That said, even at my own measured consumption of 100ml per hour on the minimum setting, you should still get 40 hours of running time from the 4 Litre Tank if you are using nothing but the minimum setting, give or take an hour or so.

    The figures that you are giving, indicate that the heater is running on its highest setting, and therefore consuming 300ml – 340ml of fuel per hour. This would give roughly 13 – 16 hours of running from the 4 litres in the Tank which is in the same ball park to the number of hours from a tank that you have found in practice.

    Its reasonably mild at the moment, and i’m only running the heaters for a few hours in the Evening, and around 6 – 8 hours each day at the Weekend, and the 4 litre tank is lasting me around 5 – 6 days. Which would currently work out at around 30 – 35 hours from a 4 Litre tank, using a mixture of High and Low settings. 4 Litres of Kero currently costs me £2.24 (based on 56p per litre).

    I just leave mine on Auto, on a temperature of between 19 and 21c (Depending on how cold i’m feeling), the heater runs for around 25 – 30 minutes at full power, and then switches down to minimum power automatically, where it remains for the rest of the evening (Unless I open an outside door and the room temperature drops).

    You mention that the heater is able to reach the selected temperature of 21c even when running on its minimum setting?. If this is running on Minimum from cold, then something doesn’t sound right if its able to heat a room to 21c purely running on minimum – the minimum setting of these heaters gives 800 watts of heat, that’s 200 watts less than an old fashioned 1 bar Electric Fire.

    Whilst 800 watts would probably be enough to maintain a constant temperature once the desired room temp had been reached, i’d be surprised if that was enough heat to reach 21c from switch on in a large room space. I suspect that for some reason, the heater is still running on its highest setting, which would confirm the number of hours that you are seeing from the 4 litres in the tank.

    It might be worth, using a room size heat calculator entering in the actual room dimensions in order to actually work out how many KW of heat your room requires in order to heat it. You will get around 10KW worth of actual heat output, from every Litre of Kero burned in these heaters, so a room which requires 3kw per hour of heat energy input, would be heated for just over 3 hours using 1 litre of Kero.

  115. peter says:

    The rooms it heats are a kitchen and liveing room aprox 25ftx18ft, it heats both of them perfect and maintains a temp of aprox 22 if set at 21, on save it goes out but comes on again after about 5mins as there as usualy the back door keeps been opened or large dog flap keeps been used so i dont use save,just auto, I dont mind it only doing 12/14 hours as it saves me loads of money and keeps bungalow warm,on min do i turn therm down to below 21 or just leave it,thank you.

  116. admin says:

    Set the temperature to the setting which is the most comfortable, and leave it on Auto, the chances are that the combination of heating quite a large area and the opening door / dog flap mean that the heater is having to switch to a higher output on a frequent basis in order to compensate for the heat loss, hence the consumption.

    The temperature of a room is a personal choice, some people are warm enough at 18c, others need the heating set at 25c. The idea of any thermostat is to set it at the lowest setting which is the most comfortable, this gives an ideal balance of saving money whilst keeping warm.

    If in doubt, set the temperature to 18c or 19c, when this temperature is reached if you still feel cold, then increase it in 1c stages until the point where the room temperature feels comfortable.

  117. peter says:

    I keep it now at 21/22 and the rooms are lovelly and warm and all for 2.50p a day, its a different kind of heat out of any paraffin heater, I find I never ache or stiff which at 67 is not bad,been using them for years but this one is brilliant and heats a much bigger area than others,

  118. Ian Lee says:

    Had a good chuckle over Matt’s posting of 16 Feb 2014 in which he stated.

    “There is a health hazard to use this device as the main source of heating”

    It seems from his subsequent response that poor Matt twisted his words which should have read “Is there a health hazard…” which makes a world of difference to his posting.

    I have been using an Investors 5006 in my home office for 10 years without fault but recently it has developed an E7 fault. Do you have any idea what this is as I can’t find any maintenance manuals online?

    It was brilliant but had one fault. It would come on at full output for 20 mins before settling down to the temperature settings. This meant that I had to leave the door open for the first 20 mins otherwise it would overheat and cut out. Is this a common feature in all inverter heaters?

    Many thanks for any help you can give

  119. admin says:

    Hi Ian

    I’d love to find a service / maintenance manual for an Inverter Heater – any Inverter Heater as it would be a bonus to be able to refer to it when giving advice here, but i’ve so far drawn a blank, even when approaching a specialist company whose business is to try and track down hard to find and obsolete manuals for appliances and Electronic equipment. I imagine that they are few and far between and only issued to Authorised Dealers (even if they exist outside of the manufacturer at all).

    According to the 5006UK Manual, an E7 error is listed as “Trouble with Electrical Parts, Refer to your Dealer” – one of those non specific error codes, which could be anything internally and given the advice in the manual may as well be a “£££” sign!.

    Interestingly an E7 error on another model is a bit more specific and leads to an overheating issue, given what you have said about your Inverter overheating previously if the door wasn’t open, i’m wondering if the thermal cut out inside the heater has perhaps tripped or failed. They look something like the component on the link below, and there may be one or more of them inside the heater to sense the running temperature and are designed to break the circuit and stop the heater if a certain temperature is exceeded. Usually they will be mounted on the internal metal work somewhere, either on the case, or on metal fittings close to the burner chamber. (On mine, its on top of the burner chamber outer skin)


    Sometimes they have a small red or white button on them, which, if the temperature reaches an upper level, they will click out and open the circuit, requiring the button to be manually pushed back in to reset it. On other models they may be designed to reset automatically, but if the heater has been frequently overheating, it may have failed internally, and the circuit left open.

    The other thing to do also, is to check any internal fuses, on the PCB inside the heater, if you have not done so already. The manual indicates that there are two 5a fuses inside the heater.

    I’m not saying that this is the problem, but its worth looking at, given the vague advice given for the E7 error in the manual. Does the heater actually ignite and run, prior to the E7 fault?, or does it just not do anything but display the error code?.

    I’m heating quite a large space, in a poorly insulated building, so i’ve not experienced any overheating issues in normal use as i’m probably needing the full 3kw, however i’ve read about others having similar problems when researching other faults for this blog. I suspect that its down to the design, as these heaters are made to heat rooms up to 120m3 – in fact the manual for the 5006UK advises a minimum room size of 67m3 – how does that compare with the size of the room where it is being used?.

    I think a good feature for these heaters (which seems to be lacking on the 3kw and 3.2kw heaters), would be the facility to manually select the heat output using control panel buttons, a bit like a convector heater or oil filled radiator, so you could select 1kw, 2kw or 3kw heat output directly from switching on, and it would maintain that setting until its put back to Auto or another setting is selected, this would prevent the heater starting off and running continuously at full power and being too powerful for a smaller room. My SRE300 does have the facility to manually select the minimum setting, but that only gives the option of (low) 800w or 3000w (high) and nothing inbetween until it reaches the set temperature, and 800w is not enough to heat a room from cold.

  120. Seán says:

    I’ve the SRE300 at my workplace which heats up a 4.5m x 3m x 2.5m room and so far no issue over the past 2 years running it on regular kerosene, using a Mr Funnel as advised here.

    On my heater, the ‘Min’ setting seems to run it on a reduced output rather than 800 watts. For example, if I set the temperature to 30C, its fan goes faster and produces noticeably more heat than with its temperature very low, e.g. 10C where its fan is barely audible. I assume this is what the 1890 watts refers to as its maximum heat output is not as strong as when on the Auto setting.

    I did a test run this morning, which also gives an idea of how quickly it heats up this chilly room and had it set at 30C to force it to run at maximum output. I included the humidity readings to show it doesn’t have the problem I previously had with a Calor gas heater, where reading quickly went above 80%, steamed up windows and damp paper caused printer paper jams!

    10:00am – 14.2C 58% – Heater switched on ‘Auto’, Window open.
    10:15am – 16.2C 51% – Window closed just before this point.
    10:30am – 19.2C 53%
    10:45am – 20.6C 48% – I set the heater to ‘Min’ at this point.
    11:00am – 20.8C 49%
    11:15am – 21.1C 49%
    11:30am – 21.4C 49%

    When I lowered the temperature at 11:30am, its fan slowed down and the temperature fall back to about 20C 30 minutes later, so I assume it put out its minimal 800 watts until the room temperature dropped back.

    Before I got my heater, I initially wondered about potential health issues, but then realised that workshop heaters run on ordinary kerosene and some are rated at over 40kW which only run at full power. If these were causing health issues, I’m sure we’d be hearing about them like the health stories about mould, germs, passive smoking, etc.

  121. Alan P says:

    I had noticed that many of these inverter heaters are being sold second-hand on Ebay and Gumtree at £60-£100 but I have been made aware (thanks to this blog) of potential problems (especially with the electronics) from fuel misuse. Now being cautious of buying second-hand, I decided to buy new and (again thanks to this blog) bought direct from Brico-Bravo at £146 each inc delivery.

    I have just taken delivery of two SRE-300 units from Brica-Bravo to replace a couple of Zibro radiant wick heaters that I’ve been using as the building I’m in is electric only and previously relied on ineffective storage heaters.

    The Zibro units proved to be a fine alternative but the output could not be regulated down much, so they would run hot at 2.5-2.8 kw and would need constant turning off and on (about every 30-60 minutes) to maintain a steady room temperature, and to keep running costs down – problem with this being the kerosene whiff given off by repeatedly doing this builds up and becomes much more noticeable, especially as I’m using the C2 heating oil version. This is even more of a problem as I live on a busy road and traffic noise becomes a big issue by leaving a window open.

    Having read the reviews and advice given in this blog I decided to invest in a couple of these inverter units instead. I was concerned about the electronics involved and that various ‘E numbers’ would appear once I ran them on filtered 28 sec heating oil; but so far so good… I have been using them for about a week now. Both have been running for about 12-14 hours per day and set to the minimum 800w (as it’s quite mild at the moment). They have kept the whole flat at 21/22C on this setting alone. The kerosene whiff compared to my Zibro wick units is virtually non-existent.

    I am still concerned that by using the filtered heating oil, the electronics will eventually start messing around but I take heart from posts made on this blog to the affect that some have been running for 4-5 years without an issue.

    I suppose if I had an oil or gas fired central heating system I would expect to be pay £100-150 each year on boiler servicing/maintenance. Factor this into the equation and ‘misused’ SRE-300 units only need to run for a year or two before they’ve paid for themselves. Therefore if a unit packed in after this time from running on heating oil then so-be-it, just replace it…but I would hope (and expect) to get a few more years out of them.

    Thank you to everyone involved in this blog.

  122. admin says:

    Hi Alan

    Yes, I’ve been using these heaters since 2010 and in fact this blog started life in 2011 as just one page intended on sharing the cost benefits of using these heaters, especially to all electric households, and those like me who were stuck with only the E7 or E10 options. The Winter of 2010 was one of the coldest for years, and during the worst of it I was saving around £60 per month over the cost of using the Storage Heaters. Whilst the 2010 Winter was exceptional as being one of the Coldest on record, even the average to mild Winters that we have had since will recoup a £35+ Saving every month for me by keeping the Storage Heaters off, so adding that to your annual Gas / Oil Boiler Maintenance estimate, the payback period of the heaters is quite quick.

    Given that Heating Oil is currently sold for around 50p – 60p per litre from the Pump (And as low as 36p per litre in a 500 litre bulk delivery), this equates to around 5p – 6p per KW/H based on the current pump price for the heat produced from these heaters, this compares very well with the current unit cost of E7 Off Peak Electricity, but with the added advantage that it can be achieved at any time of the day!. For those in flats and households using Standard Electricity for heating at the UK average of 12p per KW/H – the savings are 50% per KW/H by using an Inverter Heater instead of an Oil Filled radiator, Fan Heater or Convector Heater.

    My Corona 3016 Heater is now 5 years old, and has only required a replacement flame rod during its life, my SRE-300 is a year younger, but has required no spare parts whatsoever – not bad for what was then a £150 ‘investment’ and of which has been run on heating oil from its first tank fill. Using your own estimate, I reckon that since 2010 i’ve saved £500 – £750 in boiler servicing costs alone, but by adding five years worth of monthly Electricity savings into the mix during the Autumn and Winter months, I would say they have saved me well over £1500+ and counting. Even if both existing heaters failed tomorrow, £300 would buy me two more SRE-300’s, i’d still be significantly better off with what i’d saved overall and I wouldn’t hesitate to do exactly the same thing for the next 5 years!.

    I have no idea as to the reason why I’ve managed to get 4 – 5 years worth of largely trouble free use from the same heaters, I put it down to either luck, or the fact that they are both drained and stripped down and all parts cleaned internally at the end of every Winter season as per the guide on here. I honestly think that the key to the longevity of these heaters is regular servicing and preventative maintenance, and unlike a gas fire or boiler, all servicing on these heaters can be done legally by the owner with only basic DIY knowledge and tools.

    Its worth mentioning that others have reported (both here and the French forums) of having E based error code problems even when using the correct recommended premium fuel, with one visitor emailing me a picture of his inverter heater’s badly gunked up burner and stating that it had only been run on pre-packaged fuel. When I read comments like that, I think i’ll continue to take my chances running on standard heating oil bought at 56p a litre locally, compared to circa £1.80 / litre for the premium stuff given that the expensive fuel isn’t a magic solution to avoiding issues down the line.

    The other advantage being that the standard heating oil price varies depending on the market prices, whilst the Premium Fuel remains at the same price, despite huge cost reductions of oil throughout the industry.

  123. Neil says:

    Hi i have been running my inverter heater on paraffin for the past 2 years since i got it mainly because i could not find a supply of heating oil close by. The 2 places near me that sell paraffin from a pump charge 94 ppl and £1.12 ppl so it is not cheap. I am sure you can imagine my delight when i finally found somewhere that sells heating oil from a pump with a current price of only 35 ppl, a saving of 59p 0n a litre is a serious saving so i got 80 litres yesterday.
    Now for my main reason for posting. As i said until now i have used only paraffin in my heater and reading this blog i see it is recommended to filter heating oil before using it in the heaters so is it just a Mr funnel that you use or some other form of filtering ? Thanks.

  124. admin says:

    Hi, Thanks for taking the time to comment. I use a ‘Mr Funnel’ because in addition to filtering out dirt and rust particles, it is also fairly unique in being able to remove / separate any water contamination from within Kerosene (Heating Oil) fuel.

    When fuel is stored in large metal tanks, as the level of fuel drops, the increasing airspace above it can create condensation which drops into the fuel. The amounts are small in relation to the fuel stored in the tank, but these heaters are very sensitive to even tiny amounts of water, plus any water contamination can cause corrosion of the internal parts of the heater & burner and if amounts are large enough, damage or prematurely wear the small pump inside the heater.

    The Mr Funnel was the only filter I found that could separate out any water as well as filter out dirt passing through it, but if you can find a filter with the same properties, then there is no reason not to use it.

  125. Neil says:

    Thanks for your reply admin. Better to be safe than sorry so i have ordered a Mr Funnel off ebay. It should arrive on Thursday so i hope there is enough fuel left in the tank to last me till then or maybe just be very careful and take a few litres from the top of the drum to avoid getting any water (hopefully)

  126. Shayne Mangan says:

    Great article, but you should not use standard home kerosene in these heaters. There is special C1 grade kerosene for this purpose with no smell and little sulphur in the fumes. So here in Ireland that works out at 35€ for 20 litres.

    Can you work that one out for me.

  127. admin says:

    Hi Shayne

    Thanks for your comments, I do state many times throughout the various Inverter Heater pages on this blog that following my lead and running on standard Kerosene heating oil is done at entirely at your own risk, in addition to the chances of voiding the heater warranty, however i’ve been running two heaters on nothing but heating oil since 2010, and have suffered no detriment to my health or my property, you will also find many people doing exactly the same thing, not only on this blog but also on several Ex Pat forums in Europe and also on the Money Saving Expert Forums, I don’t see a single case where anybody has reported falling ill because of it. I also don’t find the smell to be much different either, there is no smell with either fuel when the heater is running, all that you get is a quick whiff of smoke when the heater starts up and shuts down, but this clears in around a minute.

    By using regular heating oil, I reckon i’ve saved well over £1000 in kerosene fuel costs since 2010, just compared to the cost of buying the same amount of premium fuel, The cost in the UK for Premium Fuel is just ridiculous costing as much as £1.70 per litre (about 2.23€ per litre) compared to standard heating oil, which currently costs around £0.45 per litre (about 0.57€) that is a huge difference in cost, especially at the moment with the standard heating oil currently costing four times less than the premium fuel and when buying 100 litres at a time the saving is obvious and noticeable. After almost six years of doing this, both my heaters still work, and I still have good health. The cost of Premium Fuel never reduces here either, currently the price of oil is at record low levels and i’m paying about 20p less per litre for heating oil than I did this time last year, but the Premium Stuff never reduces in price, despite it being produced and refined from exactly the same oil base.

    I will also mention that there are many commercial space heaters, designed to be used in Workshops, Garages and Marquees and Torpedo style heaters such as these are designed to be run on heating oil or even commercial diesel and vent into the air in the room, and don’t use or require an external flue, just the same as the inverter heaters. These larger commercial heaters can be bought or hired with no safety warnings, or risk to health, if there was any risk, the EU simply wouldn’t allow them to be sold. The key, is to ensure plenty of ventilation into the room when using any kind of combustable fuel based heater, and that also applies when running on premium paraffin!.

    Unfortunately, running these heaters on premium fuel makes them unattractive cost wise, after all you need a mains Electricity outlet to run this kind of heater in the first place, and ironically the Electricity works out cheaper to plug in a portable electric heater than it does to buy premium fuel to run the heater on. Before I changed over to using the inverter heaters for my home heating, I spent a lot of time working out the costs and the only way I could get these heaters to save me money – quite a bit of money on my bills was to use ordinary heating oil in them. I’d love to use the recommended premium stuff, but at almost double the cost of Electrictity that won’t happen because I want to halve my heating bills, not double them. Besides, the heaters are running fine on it.

    I have no idea how much Electricity costs in Ireland, you will need to check your Electricty bill to find out the cost of each KW/H. I can however tell you that your C1 Kerosene costing 35€ per 20 litres would work out at 1.75€ per litre, which converts to a cost of €0.175 per KW/H to run your Inverter Heater (1 litre of fuel produces about 10kw of heat). So if the Electricity cost shown in your bill is below €0.175 per kw/h, then it would be cheaper to just run an Electic Convector, oil filled radiator or Fan Heater to produce heat than to use your Inverter Heater.

  128. Neil says:

    Hi i have now been running my heater on heating oil for around 3 weeks and the heater is running just fine and i do not see any difference in it’s performance. I do however see a BIG difference in my pocket, the heating oil i am using cost me 35p a litre and the cheapest premium paraffin i can find is 93.9p a litre.

    I have never really bothered to look at the fuel tank in my heater closely before but as i was filling it the last time i noticed the words KEROSENE ONLY stamped in the metal. Funny how the manufacturers put that on the tank and the people that retail them say to use only premium paraffin. My heater is a inverter 5096 model, it would be interesting to know if anyone else has that stamped on the fuel tank of thier heater and yes it is the original fuel tank in my heater.

  129. admin says:

    Hi Neil, yes my Corona 3016 Inverter also has “Kerosene” stamped into the Metal on the Fuel Tank, I guess its down to its Japanese origins, these Heaters are extremely popular in Japan where there is no such thing as Central Heating, and where they have been used for more than a decade as domestic home heating.

    When originally researching these heaters, I found many Japanese websites discussing their use, and what did soon become obvious was that there doesn’t seem to be such a thing as Premium Paraffin or Premium Kerosene over there, all of the fuel for these heaters seems to be bought from the pump, either at a Hardware Store, or more commonly, a standard petrol station!. So that doesn’t seem much different to how Heating Oil is purchased over here, certainly they aren’t paying £5 or £6 for a 4 litre container of premium paraffin, if I did that, i’d also have to hire a skip at the end of Winter just to get rid of all of the pre-packaged empties – a very wasteful and certainly not environmentally friendly method of buying fuel.

    I’ve almost completed what will be my fifth winter of heating my home with nothing but two of these inverter heaters, and both have been run on domestic heating oil for four of those, saving me £100’s not only over the cost of Premium Paraffin, but also £100’s over the Electricity which I would have had to have used if I hadn’t changed over to these.

    When you think that heating oil is currently 35p a litre, that works out at about 3.5p per KW/H for heat, which compares very well with Electricity at around 11p per KW/H and Gas at 3P per KW/H, (especially when the loss of efficiency is taken into consideration with Gas). However if you were paying 94p per Litre for Premium Fuel, that would increase to 9.4p per KW/H for the heat given from exactly the same heater, certainly not as attractive as 3.5p and for many people, its actually costing them more to run these Heaters on Premium Fuel per hour, than it does to just use an Electric Heater.

    That said, you did very well to find Premium Paraffin for 94p per Litre, most of the pre-packaged stuff still works out at £1.45 per litre, even when you bulk buy 128 litres worth!.

  130. Neil says:

    Hi admin and thanks for your reply.
    The premium paraffin at 94p per litre was from a garden centre and not pre packaged, they have a pump and you need to take your own container.
    I live in a static caravan and the gas heater in it was pretty much useless so i ripped it out and installed a wood burner for when it gets really cold but it is too much when it is above about 8 to 10 degrees outside, that is when my inverter heater comes in. It is also very useful to put on a timer for the mornings so it is warm when i get up.

    On a different note i was reading some posts about these heaters on money saving experts forum and i can’t understand how so many people that have never had or even seen one of these heaters can give advice to other people saying how bad and dangerous they are and how they must generate a lot of condensation as they are burning a fuel with a flame and not just heating up elements or oil (in a radiator). I really did want to make a post to point out the mistakes that they were making with what they said but i was not prepared to register an account just to make one reply to some incorrect information. OK rant over and i am sorry if i stepped out of line with what this thread is about.

  131. admin says:

    Hi Neil. Yes, I also had a period in a Static Caravan and the fire inside was fueled by a 47KG Cylinder which also powered the Hot Water boiler and Stove. The location of the Van also meant that the delivery driver couldn’t get very close so it meant rolling it upright down a wooded path, then rolling the empty one back!. I was a lot younger and lighter then! and hadn’t discovered the Inverter Heaters, so there was very little option other than expensive Electricity but I can certainly appreciate the advantage of using these heaters now.

    I’ve also had countless run in’s with people who fall into the category you describe, not only through comments left on this blog but also on various forums also. Often you will get a statement such as ‘That’s dangerous” or “It will explode” or even the popular emotive “You are putting yourself and your family at risk from being poisoned in your beds”. Generally, nothing is given as an example of why, or any experience and effort used to describe how they have formed that opinion. Sadly people like to create and script their own little soap operas, especially on the internet and a lot of the biggest self proclaimed armchair “experts”, on any subject are always the ones who have never owned, used or even seen the item they are being so vocal about let alone be running a blog centered entirely around it, but that pretty much sums up forum discussions on any product or service though.

    Surprisingly, some of those who are so vocal about these heaters are perfectly happy to remain silent when portable LPG ‘Calor’ fires are used or being discussed, which have been used for decades and also have no outside flue and exhaust directly into the room in exactly the same way as the Inverter heaters, but often without the built in safety features!. I am a big advocate of promoting safety and always advise using Carbon Monoxide detectors as well as regular annual cleaning of these Heater at the end of every season wherever possible but that’s not scaremongering, that is just basic common sense whether its an inverter heater, open fire, wood burning stove or even a Domestic Gas Boiler. Regular maintenance saves money and smoke and carbon monoxide detectors save lives. But yes, there are people who will twist that advice or take the issue too far and see problems in what others are doing, but at the same time also have to embellish it to suit and add a bit of shock and awe into the mix.

    I’m more than happy to accept that there are owners of these heaters who want to use the correct recommended fuel and will continue to do so, whether its to preserve their warranty, a fear of the unknown or just because they don’t want to stray from what the manual tells them, and that’s fine. Sadly though, a lot of them are spending well over the odds by doing so, and since this blog is all about saving money on heating, it is always pointed out to them, along with an average calculation proving why!.

    To be fair, I stopped defending the point on MSE a year or so ago, life is too short and its easier to just agree to disagree and move on!. The fact remains, that i’ve saved a small fortune over the last five – six winters and will continue to do so into 2017, my original heaters are still working on domestic heating oil, have all of their original factory parts (including the fuel pump) and i’m still alive, enough said.

  132. peter says:

    40p a litre now at rodgers brown edge

  133. Neil says:

    I just thought i would bring this thread back to life by saying that i was just having a browse on Ebay and saw that BricoBravo have started selling inverter heaters on Ebay again priced at £200.28 with free postage.

  134. admin says:

    Yes, they have been selling that one on and off throughout the summer – its the Corona 3016 model, i’m holding off actively advertising these on the relevant pages in the hope that in the next few weeks they’ll start selling another batch of the SRE300 at £146.00 again, as they have done for the past two winters, and unless the need for a heater is urgent I would advise anybody considering a purchase to wait for at least a couple of weeks to see whether the cheaper heater becomes available.

  135. Alison says:

    Hello admin
    I placed an order for a Toyosan SRE 300 from ebay and have received a Toyai SRE 301 CE made in China instead. I rang the firm who supplied it and they say it is exactly the same. I thought the Toyosan was made in Japan. I have heard that Chinese products aren’t as good. Should I send it back? I haven’t opened it.

  136. admin says:

    Hello Alison. I have an SRE 300 inverter heater, which is also made in China i’ve used this heater as part of my daily winter heating provision for the last four years, and in fact its now starting its fifth winter with no problems. I may just have been lucky, but i’ve actually found it to be just as reliable as my Corona heater, which cost £100 more and is a ‘brand’ name, in fact I often openly advertise the Chinese one on this blog, when it is available from Brico on special offer.

    The only difference is, that mine wasn’t advertised or sold as a Toyosan it was simply advertised as a Kero SRE-300 the part number was the same though and it is definitely made in China.

    There are a lot of heaters which seem to share the same part numbers, SRE300, SRE3001, SRE301, SRE302 and SRE304 all seem to be / have been available from various manufacturers at some point and badged as Kero, Tayosan, Tayomi, Ruby etc and they all look physically the same. However I cannot comment on whether they share the same design, and internal components as I have not had the opportunity to do a tear down of each one. Interestingly, I have come across a Zibro heater which contained a Tayosan circuit board, so certainly it seems that components are shared across brands.

    If you want to return the heater to your vendor on the basis that it hasn’t been supplied with the badge it was advertised with then that, of course, is still your choice, however if you are returning it on the basis that you don’t think it will be reliable, then my own experience with a similar heater of Chinese origin may serve to put your mind at ease.

  137. Renata says:

    Hi, thank you so much for the all information, I used this heater 10 years while living in Japan, and I just bought one, but I’m struggling to find the fuel, I live in gravesend Kent, I just found a company that just sell 500l to much for my place, any recommendations or alternative about fuel? Thank you

  138. admin says:

    Hi, this is the only place I could find in the Kent area at the moment, its about 15 – 20 mins away from you and its expensive as its premium paraffin, but it still works out far cheaper than B&Q and a lot of the online vendors. http://www.cheaptyresmedway.co.uk/paraffin.

    At this price though, running a cheap Electric fan or convector Heater on a competitive electricity tariff will probably cost about the same (11.5p per kwh) as running your heater on paraffin from this vendor at the current price, so only you can decide if its worth the journey to go and collect the fuel, or just plug in an electric heater. Kerosene (heating oil) is course a lot cheaper, but it is difficult to find outside of rural areas in small quantities. I will keep looking and update here in the next few days if I find anything.

  139. Renata says:

    Oh it’s a shame, anyway thank you found this place, I will keep looking here Thank you!

  140. Sophie says:

    Hi there,

    I have the Inverter 4600 which works great. I don’t currently use the heating as my house runs on oil but the radiators are so old, having the heating on full constantly, will only heat my house to 14 degrees!

    I wondered if anyone knew of somewhere in Surrey to buy kerosene at the pump?

    I need to run my Inverter at max and have got through 16 litres of parafin in about 14 hours which is currently unaffordable for me.

    Many thanks in advance.


  141. jerry says:

    Hello again. Just to update you, the ‘royal’ branded heater I bought in November 2014 from bricobravo is still working well on 28 second kero. I’ve done nothing to it apart from vacuum out the air filter and clean out the fuel filter from time to time. I bought another inverter more recently (kero branded) and this seems to burn cleaner than the older one, and seems to be slightly more economical. Really pleased with both, and will probably try a corona wick heater (with kerosene filtered through charcoal) as a heating ‘boost’ as it gets colder.
    Feels like a colder winter this year!
    Thanks again for the advice over the last 2 years. I’m actually in credit with the energy company! Unbelievable!

  142. Dave says:


    many thanks for this very useful info, I have a large (6,500 sqft) house that has standard oil heating (58kw burner) but one 1,200 sqft area is reserved for my pet cats and currently is heated by use of electric heaters. £2,900 a year later in electrical bills and I stumbled across these paraffin heaters and wanted more information. After reading this page and digging into any safety aspects I could find out about (and finding they are perfectly safe) I got myself a 3kw inverter heater for the cats. Living in West Wales we know about about it getting cold here ;)

    Currently we pay 29p a litre for Kero28 as we get it delivered in bulk for our main household oil tank (2,000 litre) so getting hold of oil is no problem. The savings on heating for my cats have been amazing to say the least

    Brilliant write up and very much appreciated :) if you ever get to West Wales, the beers are on me :)

  143. Alan P says:

    Further to my post of 20th December last year, one of the two SRE-300 units I bought from BricoBravo has now started playing up.

    I noticed that BricoBravo ceased making these units available for shipping to the UK last August. I was reluctant to pay £210 for a replacement from Grundys, so I contacted BricoBravo through the Italian version of Ebay. I am pleased to say that although they no longer do the SRE-300, they do the SRE-3001 which is exactly the same, the only difference being a child lock feature added; price being 139 Euros.

    I contacted them directly through their website about shipping to the UK and was pleased that they were happy to do this for a further 35 Euros. The unit cost me a total of 174 Euros including delivery, which equated to £153; not much of an increase from the pre-EU Referendum price of £146.

    Should anyone else want to pursue purchasing this unit from BricoBravo, I found emailing Debora – Centro Assistenza directly at BricoBravo fruitful. She communicates in perfect English.

    I’ll add this just on the off-chance anyone has had the same problem: The SRE-300 that is playing up still works but the fan symbol randomly comes on with beeping every five/ten minutes (this can be after just an hour’s use or sometimes several). Momentarily setting the room temperature higher so the fan kicks in seems to clear the problem, but again, this is just a temporary solution.

    I’m not sure what the problem is but I regularly clean the rods and maintain a good stable combustion by the occasional eighth of a turn clockwise on the small white nylon screw on the PCB (I assume this is a regulator adjuster?).

    I can now only assume that the problem lies with the PCB’s control of the fan, or the fan itself. Has anyone ever had this problem or know if there is any jumper on the PCB which causes a factory reset? I’ve tried pushing the small black button near the top of the board but I don’t know what this is supposed to do (I’m curious as to the purpose of the three pin holes to the right of this button).

  144. peter says:

    hi, ive pressed the black button and turned the white screw and the heater is now working for the last 2 hours, good bit of information,thank you,no idea what they do though

  145. Dave says:

    ‘the cost of the Electricity during the normal day (peak) periods is significantly more expensive than on a standard non economy 7 tariff. Up to three or four times higher per unit in fact!.’
    Can I suggest you switch electricity supplier, I’m on an economy 7 tarif and, yes, it is more expensive than a standard, non E7 rate but only by about 2p/unit. It certainly isn’t three or four times higher. I currently pay 11.2p/unit for peak rate, 4.9p overnight, the cheapest standard rate I can find (in my area) is 9.3p/unit. Plus I run all my heavy use appliances (washing machine, tumble drier, dishwasher) overnight at the cheaper rate.

  146. Alan P says:

    Hi Peter, I’m glad you found the info useful. I’ve found that the problem does come back after a week or so of using the heater but by turning the white screw back to its original position buys another week or two’s use without the problem. This is not an ideal situation, but at least by repeating this process it allows for the heater to be useable.

    By the way, I’m in Belfast and was wondering if anyone knows of any petrol stations in the area which sell heating oil from the forecourt or pump? (my usual source is becoming a bit unreliable).

  147. JJM says:

    Hi Everyone,

    Really great site here and thanks to all that take time to contribute, especially Admin.

    I live in the countryside like most people on here, but I just moved from the suburbs of London a month ago, where I lived in a gas central heated semi. It was blissfully warm. Now I’m living in a poorly insulated, single glazed, one bed flat that has bottle Propane Gas fired radiators and hot water. The oven, hob and shower are electric.
    Basically I have figured out that if I wanted to be cozy and warm here and not care about my consumption, I would probably use a 47kg gas bottler per week. These cost me £62 each. On top of that I would still have my electricity charges, which I estimate to be around £2 per day. So another £15 per week, giver or take.
    So now I also find myself on a cheaper heating quest.

    If I owned this flat, then without delay I would install an Wood Burner, as I have access to heaps of fuel here. As I don’t know how long I will stay, it would be too much of a gamble to install one and front all of the costs.

    Then someone told me he had an inverter heater and said he loved it, and my quest brings me here.

    I have a few things I would like to be sure of or clarify though. So if anyone can help me, especially with the calculations (as I’m struggling with them so far), I would be very grateful.

    So firstly I would like to be sure on the correct size of Inverter heater I should buy for my needs. My living room is the largest room and measures 5 x 4.5 x 2.5 meters. Single glazed and is in a poorly insulated loft flat. Will 3kw be enough?
    I was thinking to place it in the doorway, so that it has plenty of fresh air from the kitchen, landing and stairs, and maybe some of the heat will take the chill from these areas.?.

    Secondly I’m trying to figure out costs.
    I’ve heard rumours that its possible to buy heating oil localy, in small quantities, for around 40p per litre. If this is true, and I run a 3kw inverter on full power for 8hrs, how much will it cost?
    I have managed to figure out how much it costs for 8 hours every evening to run my electric, 2.2kw oil filler radiator (which fails dismally to even near heat the room), and that is about £2.20, or on the cheaper off peak tariff £1.15 for when I’m sleeping. It works just fine in the tiny bedroom.

    I would like to completely switch off my gas heating and only use the propane for hot water, which I mostly use for washing dishes once a day. If I can do this, then I think I can make a bottle last at least 6 weeks, maybe longer.

    I want to be warm again!!

  148. admin says:

    Hi Dave,

    As you are probably aware, when you write a blog its a good idea to include every situation and not just expect that everybody else is in exactly the same as your own. I refer of course to pre-payment customers, which in the UK are around 5.8 million of – quite a few i’m sure that you agree and I suspect there are quite a few of those on Economy 7 – certainly there are in a rural area where I am. Sadly you have forgotten to include them in your list of tariffs, but often these prepayment customers are prevented from changing to a credit meter due to a debt with their supplier, their credit situation or their tenancy agreements. Yes i’m aware that a landlord cannot legally stop a tenant from changing from prepayment to a credit meter but a quick Google shows a lot of them still do, and legislation is only as good as how well it is enforced. I can tell you from personal experience, that when such a block or term in a tenancy agreement is reported nobody is interested, and when I eventually did find somebody to take an interest, I was then told it would take around 18 months to be reviewed as such Tenant – Landlord disputes over Meters is not considered a priority.

    So, at the time the blog page was written (2011) and revised (2013) I was ‘trapped’ on a Prepayment Economy 7 tariff, with Npower, able to move supplier as long as I didn’t change the meter type. I then moved to Ecotricity, which saved me around 1p per kw/h on both day / night rates. I’m now a householder on a standard tariff and so no longer in that unenviable tenancy, but i’ve checked the current price with Ecotricity and it still remains at 21.54p per kw/h (peak) and 6.53p per kw/h (off peak) close to what I was paying years ago, so my original equation still stands. Further more, i’ve just checked a popular comparison site, and yes over the last few years there is now a cheaper tariff than Ecotricity, but not by much.

    I’ve linked a screenshot from an Energy Comparison site to my current best tariff based on my previous situation, namely Pre-Payment and Eoconomy 7, even now the best tariff for those criteria is 16.26p (peak) and 6.28p (off peak). Current Ecotricity prices are also on there too, for clarity that the equation based on my situation in 2011 – 2013 wasn’t exaggerated, as it is the same today.


    Which is nothing close to what you are paying, but then again I suspect that you are comparing credit tariff with prepayment. If you can find a better tariff than the one on the screenshot, then please do share the info!.

    Incidentally, posting up prices of what you are paying, and the standard rate tariff you have found isn’t helpful at all, without the crucial information as to who the supplier is. So on your next visit could you please post up the missing information?, especially the 9.3p standard tariff that you have seen, as i’m sure that it will help a large number of our visitors, looking for information on the same. Thanks.

    On the plus side, you could still be saving quite a significant amount of money by changing to an inverter heater. My last supply of Heating Oil was priced at 47p per litre, which equates to 4.7p per KW/h for heating, less than half the cost of your day rate electricity, and also marginally cheaper than your E7 too, although if you don’t need to use supplementary heating during the peak rate then the margin is probably not worth it. Even as a standard tariff credit customer today, I still use these heaters in two rooms, as its still much cheaper than using a convector heater, and even 9.3p per kw/h doesn’t compare to 4.7p per KW/h.

    Finally, I appreciate the advice / temptation to run heavy consumption appliances overnight, but I won’t encourage the use of Tumble Dryers unattended and neither it seems does my local fire brigade. I’m sure that you have seen the huge number of fires in the national press, some of them resulting in fatalities and nearly all of those reports happened with an unattended machine, and I honestly don’t think saving a few quid is worth putting your safety at risk. This is Cleveland Fire Brigade’s advice on the matter.


  149. admin says:

    Hi JJM,

    Information available widely online shows that a litre of heating oil produces 10kw worth of heat when burned, these heater manufacturers seem to claim close to 100% efficiency as there is no external flue which would normally mean that some heat is exhausted to the outside when venting any fumes. Some perfectionists in a science department may argue that its never going to be exactly 100% and is more likely to be in the region of 99.5 – 99.9% efficient but I suspect that its close enough to be considered 100% in a cost equation with such marginal differences. So on that basis, you simply divide the litre cost of the heating oil by a factor of 10, in order to get the per KW running cost of the inverter heater on fuel.

    So, if you can buy oil for 40p per litre that equates to 4p per KW when burned in an Inverter heater for an hour, so running at full power a 3kw inverter heater will cost 3 (kw) x 4p /kw per hour to run = 12p per hour and so for 8 hours use, it would be 12p x 8 hours = £0.96 total for the period.

    Based on your description, and poor insulatation I would recommend that you consider a larger 4kw inverter heater for your flat, but also bear in mind that these heaters automatically regulate their power output as the room temperature increases, so once the room is warm the heater will no longer be running at its full 4kw power, it will vary its output accordingly in response to how warm the room is, and when it does reduce its heat output, its fuel consumption will obviously reduce also. I think it would be very unlikely that a 4kw inverter heater will need to be running at the full 4kw output for the entire 8 hours that you are using it, However, for peace of mind lets look at a worst case situation and just assume it does consume its full 4kw constantly for an 8 hour period non stop, and never reduces its output. This way, we get the maximum cost of the heaters’ oil consumption over the 8 hour period.

    4p per kw x 4kw consumed = 16p per hour. Run for 8 hours will be £1.28 which is still far cheaper than your other methods of heating, and unlike the oil filled radiator you will actually be comfortably warm in return for that cost. But like I say, that is the worst case figure, in practice it will probably work out cheaper than £1.28 as the inverter will not be running at 4kw constantly for that period even in a poorly insulated room, as it will automatically vary its output power based on room temperature and so there will be periods in your 8 hours where it is only running at between 1 – 3kw once the selected room temperature has been reached, reducing the oil consumption accordingly.

    Also, why are you heating an entire room whilst you are asleep?. Instead, I would advise getting a good quality high TOG Winter duvet on the bed, and if this still isn’t warm enough then an Electric Blanket would be. Modern Electric Blankets have several safety features which make them perfectly safe for overnight use, it will also use a fraction of the Energy that your radiator uses, roughly 140W for a double Electric Blanket compared to 2200W for the radiator, andon an E7 tariff the Blanket would consume about 8p worth of Electricity per night or possibly less depending on your off peak tariff.

    So my advice would be, to get a 4KW Inverter Heater for your main flat heating whilst you are awake, and put a thick Winter Duvet on your bed + possibly get an Electric Blanket for overnight heating. I would also get a time switch to switch on the radiator in the bedroom for 60 – 90 minutes before you normally awake, so the room is warm when you get up.

    Unless you have a real need to warm the other rooms in the flat constantly, then I wouldn’t bother trying to achieve this using one central heater, you are just wasting energy even if its cheaper energy and needlessly working the heater harder than you need too. Putting the heater in front of a door which is just slightly ajar should be enough for ventilation rather than leaving the door wide open. I used to move my heaters around, to where I needed to be at the time, including just putting the heater at the door of the bathroom and blasting it at full power for 5 minutes warmed the bathroom for long enough to have a shower etc.

    I can’t help much with your other consumption reduction, other than to try and shower during the Off Peak period. I would also boil a kettle to do the washing up, as it will probably be cheaper than using the Propane.

  150. JJM says:

    Thanks for the help with calculating the running costs. Thats really helpful, and the advise regarding electric blankets is brilliant, it never even entered my head to buy one. Is there any particular brand I should go for?

    Actually, your idea of making the bed warm rather heating the who room, reminds me of sleeping in my old van and camper van. The van had not been insulated or even boarded out properly, so the cold metal used to throw the cold down on my head to an extent where sometimes it hurt. In my attempts to reduce this I discovered why people had Four Poster Beds in the day, if they could afford them, so I created a tent around me inside the van. It was much better. It would be very easy to hang fabrics around my bed, then my body heat wouldn’t be wasted. Coupled with an electric blanket, it should be super cozy. I don’t like breathing in cold air when sleeping. A bit extreme? :D

    Back to Inverter heaters… Even with my cruddy maths, even if I invest £300 on a 4kw heater, by switching of my gas heating and buying an electric blanket, my investment could be paid off by the end of this winter? So come next autumn, the investment will be history and I’ll hopefully have a whole winter season of cheap coziness.

    I’ve been looking at the heaters for sale and DiO have a deal on a 3.2kw heater called Inverter 5006. I called them up and they told me its a Corona, but I couldn’t see any badge or markings to say it was one. Do Coronas have Corona badges?

    I know I should be looking at 4kw heaters but the prices seem all over the place. Some less powerful models going for higher prices than more powerful ones and some being sold with free goodies. I really detest shopping for a costly item, only to find out I bought it from the wrong place or payed too much, or it ends up be unsuitable. Its nearly as bad as being cold.

    DiO have a 4.6kw beauty for £345, but that works out at an extra £85 more than the 3.2kw. I have looked at the Brico eu eBay site and they have a 4.6kw SRE4600 for £285. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Inverter-Liquid-Fuel-Heater-Indoor-Electronic-Portable-Heating-4600W-SRE4600-/272282504442?hash=item3f654d4cfa

    Can’t seem to find a cheaper 4kw.

    I understand you have one of the SRE models and rate them. So as long as Brico bravo can ship it to me cheap enough, then maybe I’ve found one? Has anyone had any experience with one these SRE4600’s??
    I hope its not over the top.

    Thanks again for the great advice and awesome website.

  151. JJM says:

    Oh man!!!

    There are 3kw Inverters being sold in Italy for 150 euros. Thats incredible! Not from Brico bravo I might ad. Some other company that doesn’t seem to sell them on eBay uk or eu.

  152. Dave says:

    Hi Admin,
    I understand your comments and I think my post was more to indicate that not all electricity suppliers charge three times their standard rate for on peak electricity. My example was found on Uswitch for East Anglia, the supplier is ExtraEnergy, my current supplier is Scottish Power who charge me 4.9p off peak and 11.2p on peak which compares quite well with the 9.3p from ExtraEnergy (in my location). I did also check prices for pre-payment meters and found E7 prices of 6p off peak and 15.6p on peak (The Energy Deal Ltd )
    Also agree re. the use of tumble driers overnight, my circumstances allow me to use these appliances overnight but I would not advocate others doing the same unless the appliance is attended.
    Electricity is an expensive way to heat a home so I appreciate your efforts to highlight alternatives, this is how I arrived at your site in the first place.

  153. admin says:

    Hi JJM

    The Inverter 5006 is indeed a Corona model, they don’t have a huge obvious badge on the front of them, but you will get a Corona branded manual with the heater, and my Corona 3016 also states “Corona” on the specification label. If you buy the heater by mail order then under distance selling regulations you have 7 days where you can send the heater back if its not satisfactory anyway, so if it arrives and it isn’t as described then you won’t be out of pocket, but I don’t think you will find anything wrong with the branding.

    My concern, is that given the room size and poor insulation, that a 3kw or 3.2kw won’t give out enough heat, so you won’t be much further forward than you are at the moment with your 2.2kw oil filled radiator, and essentially on the coldest days you’ll be blasting out the heater on its 3.2kw output but still not really feel fully comfortable room temperature wise. In comparison, a 4kw heater should heat the room, then adjust its output once the temperature has been reached, saving fuel, whilst the 3.2kw continues to burn at its full power, using lots of fuel and you are still sat there feeling the cold. The good thing with buying a bigger heater than you (think) you need, is that if it gets too hot then you can always turn it down, whilst if the 3.2kw on full power isn’t enough, then you can’t turn it up!, so you’ll end up having to buy a second 3kw inverter heater, which will combine to cost more than if you’d just bought the 4kw in the first place.

    I’ve put your room dimensions into a Room Size heat calculator, and the result was 4.4kw – so you are close to the knuckle even with a 4kw heater, and I really don’t think that 3.2kw will be enough for the room, let alone talk of leaving doors open to heat other areas of the flat, which you mentioned before!.

    £285 sounds a lot of money and it is, but essentially its still far cheaper than the woodburner which you would fit (if you were able to), and several thousand cheaper than a Central Heating System. If you use the inverter heater as your main source of heat and use an Electric Blanket to heat the bed instead of an Electric Heater to heat the room, then you will recoup that cost back very quickly – perhaps not by the end of this Winter, but quite possibly by the end of next, I doubt any other form of portable heating will pay its outlay back so quickly.

    So personally, I would go for the SRE4600, as its output is exactly the same as the heat calculator says your room size needs. At the end of the day, is the cost difference between that and the 3.2kw really a big enough difference to take a gamble on the 3.2kw and find that its not powerful enough?. I don’t have any experience of the SRE4600 myself but I do have the 3.2kw model which came from Brico and it still works fine.

    Yes, these heaters are very popular in Europe, especially in Spain and France where Electric Heating isn’t popular due to load restrictions on the Electricity supply. Lots of ex-pats use them over there. I suspect their popularity reduces the price somewhat. There were a couple of European retailers selling to the UK, but I know of at least one retailer in the UK who threw a dummy spitting tantrum about it, and I assume that territories were then drawn up by the distributor / importer or agreements put in place so the European distributors couldn’t undercut the distributor(s) in the UK, but that isn’t exactly playing fair by the consumer, who of course can see how much these heaters are sold for, just a £10 DPD shipping charge away!.

    In relation to your other question, I would avoid the cheaper Electric Blankets on the market and go with a Dreamland, ideally one with automatic heat controls.

  154. peter says:

    I think on my own experience with thease heaters are as follows, 12 hours on at 21 deg costs 1 gallon a day aprox £2.50p per day, now the same wick heater runs for 24 hours on 1 gall and still produce the same heat, but there is no fan to spread the heat around, i tried a eco fan on one but did nothing, so they cost me 12 into aprox £2.40p equals 20p per hour to run at 21 deg, aprox 8p per kwh.

  155. JJM says:

    Hi again,

    Well, I paid £285 for my 4.6kw SRE model from Italy and the same one is sold here for £345. I don’t know if I will get a duty or import bill when it arrives, but if i don’t, then its not a bad saving, even if I am still waiting for it to arrive… Grrrr. ETA is middle of next week.
    I have a Mr.Funnel, but no heater yet. I was wondering… Does anyone have any tips on filling the tank in a clean and efficient way? I don’t want to take a smelly, oil covered tank back into the flat after topping up. I hope to adopt a good, tried and test refilling system.

    As for fuel… I have found three different places to buy forecourt pumped heating oil locally and the prices range from 52p to 64ppl. Ill have to go with these prices for the time being until my friend swaps her system over to mains gas and I get to drain the tank. Other than that, Im going to have a long wait for 40ppl oil from when my neighbour gets his next delivery. The search continues…

    Thanks for the tips on electric blankets.

  156. JJM says:

    I forgot to ask…
    Has anyone tried running an inverter on Gasoil? I think its the same as 35 second????
    Its red-ish in colour and I think its used in some home oil fired heating systems.

  157. admin says:

    35 second heating oil is basically red diesel or agricultural diesel, often used in industrial heating systems, grain dryers and tractors, although some older domestic boilers may still use it too. It goes through a completely different refining process to Kerosene (28 second heating oil) and although still considered as a heating fuel it has completely different burn properties to Kero and Paraffin. At best, in using it you are likely to clog up the jet / burner, cause a sooty mess and probably fill your flat with black, acrid smoke, at worst you’ll damage the internal fuel pump in the heater, because Red Diesel doesn’t have the same lubricity properties as Kero, and so it will be a bit like putting petrol in a diesel car!.

    These heaters will only work with certain fuels, the most obvious is class c1 or premium paraffin, which is the manufacturers’ recommended fuel, but is horrendously and prohibitively expensive for those using these heaters to save money on domestic heating.

    The cheapest alternative, which is what I use myself, (as do many others here) is domestic heating oil (28 second) standard Kerosene – usually either straw yellow or blue in colour in the UK and is generally advertised as domestic heating oil. Ordinary paraffin will work too, as will Jet A1 (if you live to close to an airfield), Jet A1 is used in helicopters and small planes and is basically a high quality, better refined Kerosene, it runs fine in these heaters, but is beyond the reach of most people unless they have an airfield locally, where it can often be purchased from an automated pump. Jet A-1 is generally about 10p – 20p a litre more expensive than Heating Oil, so may not be the cheapest option, but it is still much cheaper than the recommended Premium fuel.

    But I seriously wouldn’t recommended even considering 35 second heating oil / red diesel, as expensive damage to the heater is very likely to be the end result.

    You won’t get charged VAT or Duty on purchases made within the EU, that was the point of the whole original European Free Trade thing, what happens when Brexit is finally sorted out still remains to be seen, and could change in the future but for the moment (and probably some time to come) EU purchases don’t qualify for import duty etc and its only purchases coming in from outside the EU such as the U.S, China, HK etc, which stand any risk of being stopped and having Duty and Vat charged, so the saving you have made on the heater purchase isn’t in any jeopardy.

    You should get a manual siphon pump included with your heater, which looks something like this one

    I buy my Kerosene from a fuel broker in 20 / 25 litre drums, and I simply put some plastic sheet / old newspapers down on the sink draining board, and pump the fuel from out of the larger 25 litre container into the removable heater fuel tank via the Mr Funnel using the siphon pump. If you take your time using this method then the whole operation is clean and spill free, and it takes less than a few minutes to fill the fuel tank in this manner. The heater fuel tank has a small glass window in the side, so you can see the fuel level rise as you fill it, so there is no risk of spillage through overfilling.

    Incidentally, you can often get a quantity of 20 / 25 litre drums for free, if you have an automatic drive through car wash locally, then they buy their shampoo and wax concentrates in this type of container and since they have to pay for their waste to be collected and recycled, they are more than happy for you to take some of them away when asked. Another source of suitable Kero storage containers are Ad Blue containers, used as an emissions additive for Buses and HGV’s, and you’ll find that a lot of the big petrol stations, especially the ones at Motorway services, usually have a huge pile of empty 10 litre Ad-blue containers around the back, which they are generally more than happy to let you have.

    52p – 64p for Kero isn’t the cheapest but it still isn’t too bad and you are still set to save quite a bit on your heating bill. Even at 64p a litre, 6.4p per KW/H for heat during the Day as you need it, is much cheaper than Electricity on a standard rate tariff, and more than 50% cheaper than Electricity on a peak time Economy 7 tariff, and if you can get the Kero for 52p, even better as that will be around 5.2p kw/h.

    Kero prices vary considerably throughout the year, in response to supply and demand, and the oil price also plays a big part. If you have a friend / family with a shed or garage, ask if you can store several 25 litre drums of heating oil in there, and then just collect a drum as you need it. I buy my Kero in early August when the weather is warm, and demand for heating oil is low, and this combination usually attracts the lowest prices, and a purchase of several drums totaling 150 – 200 litres will last me for a big part of the Winter, during the period when Kero prices tend to be at their highest – so buy and stockpile your Heating Oil during the Summer if you can. If you are able to, ask the Fuel delivery guy if he would be happy to fill several containers at the same time as he delivers to your friends tank, this way you will get the same per litre price as his bulk delivery. I’ve had mixed results with this, some of the bigger national companies refuse to fill small containers on Health and Safety grounds or the fact that they don’t have a nozzle to fit, but the majority of small local Brokers are more than happy to sell another £100 worth of fuel as a part of a scheduled delivery to an existing customer. You have nothing to lose by asking.

  158. JJM says:

    Thats a shame about the Gasoil. There is a chap selling it in 200l metal drums for £50. He also sells old stock brick and other reclaimed items, so Im guessing he drained it from a tank on a salvage job.

    Thanks for the tips on getting plastic containers… I already have four. I brought them for £3.50 each and they don’t need to be cleaned at all, because they previously contained deionised water. I like the idea of the ad-blue containers though as 10l is going to be much easier to handle than 25l. I guess they will need a good thorough cleaning though?

    So if the heater comes with a pump, then when it arrives Im pretty much ready to go. Im excited to find out if these heaters really are the answer. When I tell people about them, their responses are always the same. “Doesn’t it smell?” So I guess Im the guinea pig. But I did come across something interesting on my quest for info. Cherry Fragranced Additive. I think its for people with Agas. It comes in two bottles and treats 2000 litres and costs £35. Has anyone tried this in an Inverter? I wonder if it works and instead of 20 seconds of kerosine smell on starting, you get 20 seconds of cherry? Or ‘Cherrysine’.

    As for finding a good cheap supply of fuel for the future, I’m hoping that with all the people around here that use oil and get deliveries from tankers, I’ll have at least a couple of people I can either buy from at cost or get them to add extra to their delivery and fill my cans. Its very frustrating that directly below my bedroom window is a large tank thats almost full of the stuff, and it won’t be topped up for a very long time as its used so infrequently.

    Well, many thanks again for your wonderful advise and informative site. It seems that a lot of people are really benefitting from it. My hat is off.

    I will post something when the heater arrives and I’ve had a chance to test it.

    All the best.

  159. JJM says:

    Well my heater has arrived and I have given it a good run and checked out its features.
    The heat it puts out is impressive and once to room has warmed up, I switch it to “MIN’ and it keeps the temperature around my desired level for most of the evening.

    I’m struggling with my MR FUNNEL though. It only just squeezes into the tank opening and doesn’t allow for air to escape from the tank as it fills. I will have to modify this in someway. Does filtering help reduce the odour??
    My heater has a certain “wiff” to it while its running and reminds me of an Airport Runway on startup and shutdown.
    I’m very tempted to try the Cherry fragranced additive, but the heaters instruction book says not to use fuel with additives. I’m not sure exactly what they mean by additives, maybe they mean impurities??
    I thought the AGA additive was to help with a cleaner burn. That must be a good thing right??

    As for consumption… A full tank will last a couple of evenings. At the moment I’m using a can I bought locally for 56ppl. I’m sure I’ll find a cheaper source before too long. So at 56ppl, and a tank holding 7 litres, Im using about 3.5l an evening, so just under £2.00?? If this turns out to be the average, then over a month, thats about £60.00. That less than one bottle of gas. Ok, if I used 3 gas bottles a month, I get heat in every room, but at £186, I really can’t justify it, not living alone. So all in all, I estimate that next winter, (one I have recouped the outlay for the heater and sundries this year), I should be about £400/£500 better off. I could buy two more heaters with that saving.
    Really need to reduce the smell though. Has anyone tried running an Air Purifier in the same room? I think they are low consumption, and have got to make a difference to air quality, seeing that this thing is burning 3.5lts of oil a day.

  160. admin says:

    There are four sizes of the “Mr Funnel” available, as they sell different diameters, in order to make them suitable for filling everything from Lawn Mowers and Motorcycles to Cars and Plant Equipment, which size did you buy?. http://www.mrfunnel.com/Mr._Funnel/Models.html

    The Mr Funnel won’t remove Kerosene Odour, it is designed to remove dirt, grit and tiny particles of rust, as well as any water absorbed into the Kerosene which often happens when being stored in underground tanks or transported in metal tankers (common with Fuel Brokers), all of these can cause damage to the heater and in the case of water droplets, internal corrosion to the pump and burner, hence why I recommend anybody running on Heating Oil considers using a Mr Funnel as these contaminants are more likely to be found in Kero compared to the prepackaged, expensive premium stuff.

    There are some tips for removing the odour of Kerosene on the internet, one is to run the Kerosene through a carbon filter before final filtering it with the Mr Funnel, another is to add a cup of Limestone Powder (Often known and sold as Calcium carbonate) to a Gallon container of Kerosene, let the powder settle to the bottom of the container for 3 – 5 days, and then filter out the powder before using. I have no idea how well this works, or even if it works at all as i’ve had no reason to do it myself, but there is no harm in giving it a try if you find the smell to be bad. Its a practice often used by those who use Indoor Kerosene lamps for camping, log cabins and on narrow boats, so there must be some advantage to doing it.

    I have my doubts about how effective the Cherry Fragrance will be, certainly not enough confidence to buy 2000 litres of it just on description alone without trying, but again there is no harm in giving it a try if you want to make that committment, I can’t see how a tiny amount of what will probably be some kind of Fragranced Essential oil based product will damage a heater, will the supplier sell you a small sample of this to try before buying 2000 litres worth? – they should do, assuming they have any confidence in their product!.

    I suspect that the heater manufacturers haven’t been able to try every single additive on the market or have any interest in doing so in order to approve them, so to keep on the side of Caution, its probably easier for them to just warn against using any additives so people won’t take the risk. I added the Exocet AGA type additive for a whole Winter without any problems or damage. I would try the other methods I suggested first though, as they won’t put the heater at any risk, however small that risk may be.

    Was the Kerosene new fuel, or was it aged fuel drained from an Heating Oil tank?. I’ve never had a problem with either of my heaters in relation to a smell, apart from perhaps one minute either side of switching the heater on and off, where it would give out the Jet Fuel type smell. Like I said before, Kerosene is from the same family as Jet-A1 fuel, hence the very similar smell when they combust, it seems strange that you are getting the smell when its running though, i’ve never experienced that personally ( nor have any of my Visitors, unless they are just too polite to say anything!). I only get the smell during the start up and shut down procedure.

    £1.96 for an Evenings worth of heat in a poorly insulated, reasonably large living area isn’t bad, compared to the fact that you mentioned previously paying roughly £2.20 to run a 2.2KW oil filled heater. Part of that period you are now getting 4.5kw instead of 2.2KW, so more than twice the heat for less cost, I’m assuming that in return for that £1.96 that you are actually warm now, compared to when you used the oil filled radiator?, so at least you are getting maximum benefit in return for a reduced cost. There is scope to reduce that further though, have you tried running the heater on Auto? so that it starts and stops itself, rather than running constantly on Minimum. Try it in that mode for an evening, and see if it makes a difference to your oil use. If you find cheaper oil, that will of course reduce the running cost as well, at 40p per litre, 3.5 litres would cost £1.40 per Evening, which is nearer to my original calculation, based on the same per litre cost.

    Have you also moved over to using a thicker duvet / Electric Blanket in order to cut the use of the expensive, Electric oil filled radiator?. At £1.15 per night, there is the potential to save upto £34.50 per month, which works out at a £172.50 saving over a 5 month typical Autumn / Winter period – almost enough to buy a 3.2KW Inverter Heater from that saving alone, if you can get used to not using the Electric Heater during the night.

  161. peter says:

    theres a new wick double burner heater made by qlima its a 2.7 kw heater, it burns first at 750c then burns the smoke fumes etc at over 1000c, its about 150pounds and uses no leccy but no fan,

  162. peter says:

    bought a paraffin heater off amazon to replace the converter one as i sold it as always going wrong, This new one is like a american one and rated 2.5kw and cost 42 pounds, its very hot sends heat in 360 radius plus the top.it runs for about 10/12 hours on 1 fill of about 3 litres, fitted my eco fan on top and the heat is tremendouse , it uses a fibreglass wick and its in a catolitic convertor glass tube with a wire cage around it, it also go a anti tip over fuel cut off,its a bargain

  163. Ray Houlton says:

    I live in a retirement Static Home (Static Caravan) 40ft by 13ft 3 Bedroom and have been using a 3.2kw inverter heater for a few years. I find one is sufficient to heat the whole van in winter. for those who live in the North west I use N Booth & Sons http://www.heatingoilnorthwest.co.uk/ for my fuel using Kerosene 28 sec Second without problems. I pay £17.50 for 25Ltrs. Fill up is a normal style petrol pump. Up until last year I collected this myself. But now a very nice chap delivers it to me at no extra cost. Saves me the trip. They can also supply the 25ltr plastic drums. I run on 3 drums 75ltrs. so normally one delivery of two drums a month is suffient. During the winter months I keep the inverter heater set at 20 degrees which is sufficient to wander around the van in shorts. so it not only saves on heating but also the weekly wash. LOL Ensure you use the ECO switch and this will save fuel. During the winter the heater timer comes on at 0630 and off at 2300. If it is really cold (outside) I leave it on its lowest setting overnight. I give it a service every summer. Takes about an hour I came across a pdf on how to do this online. So to sum up Heating costs me about £35 a month in winter and I award an Inverter heater five stars.

  164. Jerry says:

    Hello again. The inverter I bought back in november 2014 finally gave out. I was greeted with a puddle of kerosene when I filled it and it went on the skip as I can’t say I’d be able to trust it any more. It gave great service, although it was giving more and more error codes at the end if last winter. I dug out an old Valor radiant deluxe paraffin heater from the 70s and gave it a go.
    I filtered the kerosene through a piece of activated carbon, bought from pets at home for £2.80 (intended for removing odour from cat litter trays!). I then put it through a Mr. Funnel, and tried it in the heater. a warm relatively odourless flame was achieved from the fire. I left a window open for safety, but in my opinion there was around the same level of odour as with premium paraffin which costs nearly £2.00 a litre. I’m getting a carbon monoxide detecter for safety before I try it again, but really pleased with the test. I’d prefer a heater with a lower level of technology than inverters as they look quite complex to repair. The other inverter I own is going well after nearly 2 years of use. (Ps. If you try this method of filtering kerosene it’s at your own risk!!).

  165. admin says:

    Jerry, from your description it may just have been the ‘filler’ cap on the fuel tank which was faulty, these are spring loaded valve type affairs, which close when the tank is carried to stop the fuel leaking out, but are pushed open when inserted into the heater chamber, allowing the fuel to flow. These can go faulty, which loses the flow shut off control and just leak fuel through the heater, resulting in a puddle of heating oil. There is very little inside these heaters to leak, as beyond the tank, there are just a few, usually copper pipes between the tank, pump and injector within the combustion chamber.

  166. Vince says:

    After looking at this website many times a few months ago I bought a Tayosan 4.6kw Inverter Heater. It has been brilliant. It came with 16L of free paraffin but now I run it on kero – no difference at all. I am very very careful to filter the fuel – it goes through a 10 micron Racor type filter and then a water trap funnel.
    I have been using it for 10 hours a day and it works hard.
    The last few days I have noticed it is struggling to start – takes a bit longer and quite a puff of smoke. It then runs perfectly.
    Any ideas?

  167. admin says:

    Hi Vince

    There are a couple of possibilities here. First of all it could simply be stale or contaminated fuel, and just like Diesel, Kerosene can be affected by bacteria growth in the fuel when stored for extended periods or in less than ideal conditions. Has the fuel that you are using currently been stored in the machine fuel tank over the summer?, Kerosene (Heating Oil) whether in the home or retail environment should be stored in an airtight container out of direct heat or sunlight, equally it could have been stored for several months in tanks at the Vendor in less than ideal conditions and I, myself, have had fuel from yards in the past which has been in tanks which previously were used for (and so contaminated with) small quantities of red diesel or other fuels which gave rise to running issues, which were corrected when a new batch of fuel was used. So my first piece of advice would be to start with the basics and try a new batch of fuel, ideally from another vendor if possible. These filters are excellent at filtering out water and dirt, but they won’t help at all in cases of stale or fuel which has been contaminated by other fuels or bacteria growth.

    If this does not help then I would check that the heater is pre-heating the chamber correctly, if you have an energy monitor or even just watching the Electricity Meter itself when the heater is switched on from cold, you should observe a change in your Electricity usage of around 600 – 900 watts, or a change in speed of the wheel or LED indicator on the Electricity meter, which will indicate correct switching of the small preheating element used to pre-heat the chamber before the ignition sequence. I’ve never known this Element to fail, but it is worth doing the simple test and ruling out.

    Finally, if non of these provide a resolution, then you may need to service the heater, which involves dismantling the heater and physically cleaning the igniter and burn chamber and I do this myself at the end of every Winter season on both of my heaters routinely. Although its probably unlikely that a heater which is not even several months old requires a thorough service, it could simply be that a tiny flake of carbon has formed on the igniter, injector or other component, especially if the heater does get used for long periods as even a tiny amount of carbon blocking a nozzle or igniter can create issues, even as a one-off when the rest of the heater is still relatively clean. Details on how to strip down and service this kind of heater can be found HERE. Although the service instructions and photos focus on one model of heater, the process and components are very similar on all types of this kind of heater.

    Hopefully one of these will provide a resolution, however without an error code being displayed by the Heater, it really is a process of elimination.

  168. Peter Szygowski says:

    Just wondering how to post comments on this site, as I’ve just purchased an inverter heater? I’m having difficulty in logging in!!

  169. admin says:

    Peter. Well whatever you did seemed to have worked as we got that comment!. Please note that all comments are moderated and have to be manually approved before they appear, otherwise the blog would be taken over by spam bots and ads for certain pharmaceuticals. This is also a personal blog, run alongside a full time job and family commitments and so submitting a comment and it appearing may not be immediate as i’m not always sat in front of a PC. I am only able to approve and reply to comments as and when my free time allows.

  170. Don says:

    I got a Qlima SRE3631TC-2 from Amazon Italy as the ebay offer on this page was out of stock when I ordered. A little more expensive. (£178) . A bit worried as the women in my family are very sensitive to ‘oily’ smells , we have an oil AGA & C/H boiler and they complain when either are serviced. So I was worried about any smell from the Qlima!

    Ran it for a couple of weeks on C1 with some ‘essential oil’ , then 2 weeks 50:50 heating oil and C1 with ‘essential oil’. Now on to 100% Kerosene ( no ‘essential oil’) – no smell at all! I am using the Mr Funnel suggested on this page and a white plastic 4 litre ‘jerry can’ so I can visually inspect the Kerosene before filling the Qlima fuel container to make sure no ‘bits’ get transferred.

    Great heater – thanks to the site owner and posters here for giving me the confidence to buy the heater and to run it on Kerosene.

  171. admin says:

    Hi Don

    Thanks for your feedback, good to know that the advice helped. I’m just about to start my eigth Winter heating my home using two (Corona and Kero branded) heaters – yes the same two that I wrote this page about several years back, and other than routine servicing and cleaning every spring they have worked flawlessly on heating oil, which was quite remarkable when you consider the cost of the Kero Chinese made heater was only around £150 and has probably saved me £1000’s in heating bills over the years.

    I’ve actually just purchased a Qlima heater for myself, as they are back in stock, (but any Stock does tend to run out quickly at this time of year as you found), and I hope to write a full review on it, once it has covered a Winter season. However I do have a relative who already use a couple of these to heat a log cabin, and they are already proving to be a fantastic little heater, they’ve just replaced an IBC worth of Kero, so that is about 1000 litres worth of ordinary heating oil consumed between them without any issues.

  172. James says:

    For some reason I can’t see any of the comments on this page.
    Has anyone run standard paraffin in these Inverter’s OK?
    My local fuel company that did yard sales of Premium have stopped due to Covid.

  173. admin says:

    Hi James. I’ve been running both inverter heaters of mine on domestic heating oil since I started this blog in 2011. Now the comments are back (sorry, a wordpress issue) you will see comments by many others who are doing the same.

  174. JAMES SMITH says:

    Thanks Admin, I thought it was an issue my end (comments).

    Yes I’ve seen that, I’m just concerned about doing the annual servicing bit, I’m not very mechanically minded.

  175. James says:

    This heater might interest people if they are looking for something a little more powerful, 4.6kW heater, Plus it comes with some free fuel.
    (I’m just about to order this now)

  176. admin says:

    Hi James, I’m not mechanically minded either, but thanks to the video which I embedded on the servicing page, I found it relatively straightforward, as thankfully these heaters are not too complicated, and don’t really require any special tools. Suffice to say that it still took me an entire afternoon to complete the servicing, where it may take somebody more engineering minded, an hour or so, but it was do-able with a bit of patience and care. I found taking photos on a phone at each stage of the dismantling procedure to be a lot of help when re-assembling, I also didn’t end up with any ‘spare’ screws or parts at the end either, which is always a good sign!.

    Its worth remembering, that these heaters will still need routine cleaning at some point even even when run on the recommended fuel, such is the combustion process of any fuel based heater, it will always leave carbon and soot residues, however I clean out my own heaters every spring when run on standard heating oil just for peace of mind. It might be worth using Dipetane additive to the fuel when you fill the heater (I use 10ml of Dipetane for each 4L – 5L fill added to the heater tank before the fuel), but there are other heating oil based additives as well, which profess to reduce the amount of soot when fuel is burned. These additives may well help to extend the time required between servicing.

  177. James says:

    Sorry for all the questions, Is Kerosene C2 the same as heating oil?
    I’ve seen that it’s half the cost of Premium paraffin.

  178. Kuljit Dhillon says:

    Hi – Great blog by the way, loads of fantastic information.
    Looking at the inverter heaters and am torn between the Zibro LCSL530 and the Tayosan SRE-4600 for heating our conservatory.

    Want to go for the Zibro as it has occupation sensors so will save on fuel but the Tayosan clearly states it can be used on normal Paraffin. Can source fuel locally at 70p a litre.

    Your opinion would be greatly appreciated.

  179. admin says:

    @ James, Kerosene C2 is Regular Heating Oil and Kerosene C1 is Premium Paraffin – the more expensive stuff.

    @Kuljit – Either of those heaters will be fine for what you need. Both should run just fine on regular paraffin, although you may want to opt for the Tayosan to preserve your warranty when run on Paraffin.

    I actually use (and have used since 2011) regular domestic heating oil in all of my heaters will no ill effects to either them or me, this is currently even cheaper (54p a litre in Staffordshire). But you will still make a saving running your heaters on Paraffin at 70p per litre, which works out at around 7p per KW/H when comparing Energy.

  180. Jimmy says:

    Hi everyone just an update for those with heaters who live in the North West

    Please note that I have no connection with this company, nor should it be considered to be a personal recommendation as to the service which they offer because I have never used them myself, i am taking 2 x Zibro heaters to him for sevicing will update when i get them back
    contact number for the Northwest Engineer is below should you decide to follow that route.
    Alex – 07988774336
    Inverter Zibro Corona service centre
    33A Bonds Lane Banks PR9 8HG

  181. Some old guy in the UK says:

    Thank you for writing this page. This is a very helpful article with regard to the use and safety of these types of heaters; however, there is one point about their function I question. You say these produce “little, if any condensation, unlike earlier paraffin heaters and gas bottle calor heaters”. I don’t think this can be true as the production of water is an essential byproduct during the combustion of hydrocarbons, regardless of the method of combustion. The amount of water is significant and in conjunction with the oxygen consumed results in slightly more water vapour than the volume of fuel consumed. Unless the device has a flue to duct this away, or has some condensing mechanism to capture the moisture so that one can pour, or drain, it away; the combustion of paraffin/kerosene will always release water into the surrounding air as the laws of chemistry dictate it can do nothing else. Or am I missing something here?

  182. admin says:

    No idea. I can only comment from experience of using these heaters for domestic room heating for over ten years now, first in a one bedroom flat and now in a three bedroom house, and I have had no problem with condensation or damp issues at any point in a decade. I also have a digital combined thermometer and humidity monitor in the living room, and i’ve been checking this randomly since your comment was made and it doesn’t go any higher than 56% RH even with the heater being on all Evening. Also in Japan, these heaters are generally the sole source of space heating for homes, in fact they are as popular over there as Central Heating is in the UK, which would be surprisingly if widespread damp issues resulted. So although I can’t give a scientific explanation to your question, I can give my practical experience and I have never experienced it in either of the properties i’ve owned, and the hundreds of other comments here are not filled with other users highlighting condensation as being a factor in their use.

  183. George Higgins says:

    Hi, Been following this blog but have eventually made the decision to go for it. I currently heat a greenhouse to 18 degrees with electricity for the growing and overwintering tropical plants in the UK. My question is what’s the minimum thermostat setting on these heaters? don’t think it will be an issue but wondered if they have a min setting below 15 Celcius? when using a lower setting does this cause more smell? Can these units be run overnight in a greenhouse without any intervention? fuel permitting). I read that some of these Japanese heaters require you to press a button every so often to keep the heater functioning, and this wouldn’t be feasible when using it over night in the manner I intend. Would be greatful for any help prior to making the purchase.

  184. admin says:

    Hi. I have two of these heaters, a Japanese one made by Corona, and a Generic one branded ‘Kero’ KRE series origins unknown (but possibly China). The digital thermostat on the Kero goes right down to 2c whilst the lowest setting on the Corona is 12c so both brands would appear suitable for a 15c setting. Once set, the heaters can be set to cycle automatically on / off in relation to the thermostat setting. I’ve never had to keep pushing buttons to keep them running and in winter I often run them 12 hours a day at weekends. The only time they would need manually resetting would be if a built in safety protection mechanism tripped such as excess CO2 detected (these heaters are very safe) or if there was power outage. However running the heater via a UPS would most likely deal with short power outages if this was likely to cause issues. If running on normal heating oil most of the smells occur on ignition and shutdown, however running on odourless paraffin would give you little smell at all, albeit 2 or 3 times the cost per litre compared to domestic heating oil. But at this current time, even the expensive odourless paraffin works out a bit cheaper than Electricity.

  185. martin f w maggs says:

    could you please send me a email about a paraffin inverter heater thank you m maggs .

  186. admin says:

    Hi. This is a personal blog page about the benefits of these heaters based on over ten years of my own experience. I don’t commercially sell these heaters nor have any connection with the manufacturers, so regretfully I have nothing to email you.

  187. Frank says:

    Living in on the Costa del Sol, our reversible air conditioning units (air sourced heat pumps) have provided domestic heating for many years. Advancing age has made us more sensitive to cold and we decided to use a 3.5 KW Qlima inverter heater for an evening boost of up to 5 hours per day.
    We are not entirely happy with the performance and suspect that our flames are not blue enough. Could you publish a photo of a “good” flame please.

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