Corona Inverter Heater Error Codes

Are you having problems with your Corona Inverter Heater?, if the heater is failing to light or it cuts out after a period of operation, then it will often display an Error (E*) based code in its LCD Display consisting of the letter E and a single digit. Using this error code can lead you to the cause of the fault.

Corona Inverter Heater Error Codes

  • E0 – Old / Poor Quality of Fuel
  • E1 – Flame Rod Sensor Failure – Solution Here
  • E2 – Water residue in Fuel / Reduced Combustion
  • E4 – Water / Dirt In fuel
  • Advice on how to easily rectify E0, E2 and E4 error codes on the Corona Inverter Heater models is covered in detail here
  • E5, E6 & E7 Codes – Electrical Part Failure /Internal Problem, Refer to Service Agent – please read our advice on this here
  • E9- The inverter heater has been knocked and the Auto Shutoff device has been activated. Place heater on level surface, and cycle power to reset.

If you are getting continuous intermittent error codes, on your Corona Inverter Heater then click here for a step by step DIY Guide to stripping down and servicing most makes of Inverter Heater.

Are you looking for the Error Code List for a Zibro Inverter Heater?. Click Here for Zibro Error Codes.

35 Responses to Corona Inverter Heater Error Codes

  1. Kaveh says:

    My heater fan some times give error E H i dont know what dose means . I searched in internet .but i cant find about .

  2. admin says:

    It may help if you told us the Model number of the heater?

  3. alireza says:

    hi. i have a problem like kaveh. my heater gives EH error some times too. model of my heater is GT-325Y. please help me.

  4. Ahmed Smadi says:

    Dear Sir ,

    Many thanks for your serves its helpful , I have Corona inverter heater model no. FH-IX575BY all information in Japanes language and we don’t understand any thing can you please give us some help by sending English Manuel for this model or other models .

  5. admin says:

    @ Alirezi – The GT325Y was only made for the Japanese market, and so all manuals and instructions are only available in Japanese. Since I only read English, it is difficult for me to understand what the EH error code means from the Japanese Instructions. However, using an Optical character reader and online document translator, i’ve been able to translate sections of the Japanese characters in relation to the error code part of the user manual. The EH error code indicates that the heater is overheating and has exceeded its safe internal operating temperature. The cause of this is usually dust, either in the fan air intake at the back or the hot air outlet at the front, and you should clean all of the heater vents.

    You should also make sure that there are no obstructions either behind or in front of the heater, and that there is plenty of open space around the heater.

    If this does not solve the Inverter Heater ‘EH’ error code, then you may want to clean the heater on the inside. These heaters are usually built to a similar design, regardless of the model number and so this guide should give you an idea of how to take apart and clean and service your own heater.

    If you can read Japanese, then the manual for the GT-325Y can be found on the link below, however there doesn’t seem to be an English language version available.

  6. admin says:

    @ Ahmed Smadi – The FH-IX575BY appears to be an older model launched in 2005 and has now been out of production for a few years. Because of this there is little information available on this heater currently. In addition to this, your heater only appears to have ever been sold in Japan, hence the lack of any instructions in English, and it is very likely that there has never been a manual for this heater written in English

    You could try contacting the manufacturer – Corona and asking if they are able to supply you with an English manual. The link to their website contact form is below

  7. Ahmed Smadi says:

    many thanks for your help

  8. Huw Watkins says:

    My Kero heater now seems to be doing odd things. It wont ignite. I ran out of fuel the other day so got some more however on re-felling I could not get the thing to fire.

    After the pre-heating happens the igniter kicks in and you get a brief flame before it goes out. This happens again when the heater tried again. You just get a lot of smoke out the from of the heater(from the unburt fuel I guess?)

    I’ve cleaned out the heater, cleaned the fuel rod and igniter. Cleaned all the carbon out of the atomiser bowl. I also checked the fuel pump which does look to be pushing fuel on ignition.

    On failing I get a mixture of E1 E2 or E9 errors. I’ve since gone and bought some Paraffin thinking that the fuel was the problem but its still not working.

    Any ideas?

  9. admin says:

    Hi Huw,

    From your description of the problem, my guess would be that the Flame Rod in your heater has failed. This device sits just to the side of the burner in the path of the flame jet, and just as its name suggests, it senses the presence of a flame.

    Certainly “E1” on a Corona heater indicates a flame rod failure, and “E2” indicates a combustion problem, which could easily be flagged as a domino effect and created by the heater thinking that the jet had failed to ignited (due to the faulty flame rod not sensing the presence of the burner flame)

    Usually during an ignition sequence, the combustion fan will run, the chamber will preheat and then the injector pump will run and the ignitor will fire, at this point the control unit will expect to see a sudden change in resistance from the flame rod, as it gets heated by the flame jet. Once it recognises that the burner has successfully lit, the Fan speeds up and the ignitor switches off, and the heater runs.

    I suspect that the Flame rod in your heater has worn to the point where it has either gone open circuit, or the resistance change which it feeds back to the control unit when it gets heated has varied so much that it is not what the control unit expects. In this case, the heater fails to sense that the burner has successfully lit due to the incorrect reading being fed back from the flame rod, so thinking that the burner hasn’t lit the heater switches itself off, to prevent unburnt fuel from being injected into the chamber, eventually overflowing and becoming a safety hazard.

    Flame Rod’s are considered consumable items in all types of Combustion heaters, including Gas and oil fired Central heating boilers, after all they are in constant contact with a jet of flames. Fortunately replacements are available for our heaters.

    Edit:- I’ve just noticed from your previous post (on the other page), that you mentioned that a piece of your heaters’ flame rod broke away when you cleaned it the first time. This again, leads me to suspect even more, that the Flame Rod was / is probably past its best, and it is the Flame Rod which is producing the fault now.

    At this point you have two options. Either repeat the cleaning process, and rub the surface of the flame rod with some fine grit sandpaper, to make sure that any carbon has been removed.

    Or secondly, just buy a replacement Flame Rod (Probably the best option). I have put the contact details of a company who can supply replacement parts for Inverter Heaters, in the comment section of the page below.

  10. Huw Watkins says:

    Admin – thanks for your re-ponce, much appreciated.

    I’ve sanded the flame rod down and its as clean as its going to get. I assume at this point its just a matter of replacing it. Its frustrating as its almost like a car engine that catches a few times but doesn’t quite start.

    The website you linked to doesn’t list flame rods as spares – Is this something I need to phone them up for?

    I’ve stripped the heater down and back together so many times I can do it under 20 minutes! Happy to take some high res photo’s next time…the model I have is an SRE-300

  11. Huw Watkins says:

    Just for info – this is what my flame rod looked like the first time I opened the heater. Notice the short but of metal stuck to the side of the rod.

  12. admin says:

    I have to say that the flame rod (The ‘L’ shaped component) looks like it has seen better days!. Contact this place in relation to Spares, their email is on the webpage in small text

    {Link removed}

    The SRE-300 is known by many different sub-brands such as Kero-Sun and Ruby, however its manufactured by Tayosan, it also shares many parts with other heaters in the same ‘SRE’ series, so it shouldn’t be too much of a problem to supply spares. Essege are the main importers of these Heaters into Europe and they should be able to either recommend a parts distributor in the UK, or give you a quote themselves.

    Just to check one final thing, prior to the heater attempting to ignite, do you still hear the pump starting up?

  13. Lee Peters says:

    Hi I have 2 kero sre 300 heaters and they have both stopped working at the same time, I have looked at the other posts and have changed the fuel from kero to c1 paraffin and also another brand of kero but still no joy. Have gone through the servicing on both and also cleaned out both tanks and sanded everything I can. The injector is spraying fuel and have a good spark but just will not ignite ( do get lots of smoke) . I e mailed essege to buy new flame rods but had no reply. Do you know another place to buy these from or anything else I can try. Use these heaters a lot in my boarding kennels and dog grooming room and am really stuck without them, HELP !!!

  14. admin says:

    So you are actually getting a spark?. What error code does the heater report ‘E-‘ when it fails to ignite?

  15. Lee Peters says:

    Yes getting a good spark and smoke it trys to light twice and then get an E1 error code. This is happening with both heaters.

  16. admin says:

    When you say that it tries to light, do you ever actually see a flame appear from the burner, even if only for a brief second?. I’m trying to ascertain whether the smoke which is appearing is from the burner lighting, and then immediately being extinguished or if its simply the result of the fuel being injected inside the hot, Electrically preheated combustion chamber.

    Its strange that both heaters failed at exactly the same time, have you previously been de-watering the fuel using a “Mr Funnel”?. E1 does seem to indicate a flame rod problem, although, again, its strange that exactly the same component failure has happened in two different heaters at exactly the same time, so its worth checking the other possibilities before committing to the purchase of a new flame rod(s).

    Some other things to check – does the combustion fan (The one located under the burner chamber and connected via a short length of hose) start up ok prior to the ignition attempts?. Also check that the hose feeding air into the bottom of the chamber isn’t holed or split.

    Also check that the Electric heating element in the burner chamber is preheating correctly prior to the heater attempting to ignite. The easiest & safest way of checking this, is to temporarily turn off as many running Electrical Appliances as possible, and note the change in speed of the Electricity Meter wheel turning or LED pulsing (depending on meter type) when you start up the Inverter from cold. The Element doesn’t consume a huge amount of Electricity, but it should be enough to produce a noticeable change in consumption when the heater is switched on.

  17. Lee Peters says:

    never get a flame at all when starting . The fan underneath is operating and there are no splits or holes in the pipe I have not used a mr funnel to de water the fuel but I have changed the fuel for pre pack c1 fuel and cleaned out and wiped both the tanks.
    I did check the heater and it is getting hot on both heaters

  18. mehdi says:

    I have corona heater , I have cleaned burner when I power on the device , EA error displayed . Please help me to solve this problem

  19. admin says:

    EA Error – Lack of Ventilation. The room is either too small for the heater, or there is a lack of fresh air ventilation. Open a window slightly and place the heater close to the window. If this fails to solve the problem then you may need to replace the Flame Rod (Flame Sensor) in the heater.

  20. David says:

    Hi all
    I have the same heater, SRE300 with similar problems. It has been serviced by an ironmongers. The heater worked brilliantly when I first brought it back but now has returned to the same old habbits. Igniting and running then after 15 minutes or so the fan sign shows and the heater then shuts down. Now this has developed into the heater firing up and the flame looks perfect then after 2 seconds the flame appears to be blown off the gauze and shuts off, reignites itself again and does exactly the same thing. I am using domestic kero which I filter through a mr funnel. The heater qas just 12 months old when it first started having problems. Maybe I just got a bad one. I am thinking of buying a corona as my dads got one and its never had a problem in 4 years running on domestic kero. Did lee peters ever get to the bottom of the issue?

  21. Yazeed says:

    I have HH error what dose it mean and how I can fix it ?

  22. admin says:

    HH Error’s aren’t covered or documented, so I suspect that it will indicate a failure of a non user serviceable part, such as an Electronic Component failure inside the unit or on the control panel. So unless you are familiar with fault finding on Electronic Components then you will probably need to refer the heater to a dealer.

  23. Behnam.m says:

    hi dear admin ^_^
    thanks for your useful answers
    i live in Iran.
    i use the CORONA – GH100F, i like it Because its great
    thanks to company who made it
    my question is , what is the E8 error mean?
    and, how do i fix this?
    thanks lot

  24. admin says:

    Hello Behnam.m – Errors which are not listed in the user manual, usually mean a fault with a non user replaceable part inside which requires a service engineer to fix, usually this is related to an Electrical fault – common failures which may trigger these types of errors are a fault on the main circuit board inside the heater, or the small CO2 sensor which is a small circuit board located under the main circuit in some heater models but its hard to say what is causing it without fault finding. Depending on the availability of Corona spare parts locally, it may be possible for you to buy the replacement circuit board and change them over yourself, however its impossible to say what has failed and exactly what parts you need to replace, just from the E8 error itself.

  25. Garth says:

    In case Lee Peters’ problem mentioned above wasn’t diagnosed, I had the exact same problem – sparking at startup but no ignition and “smoke” which was actually unburned fuel, being emitted. Turned out to be a simple fix but took a while to get there – the pipe carrying fuel from the pump to the combustion chamber was partially blocked so fuel was squirting into the combustion chamber rather than being evenly vapourised. Elusive problem as I checked the pipe initially and it seemed clear since the issue was only a part blockage. Forcing a pin in and out of the combustion end of the pipe fixed the problem. Hope this helps someone.

  26. Sakhe says:

    Hi admin
    I have Corona fk-m53 but I have problems with error is E7, what is mean?


  27. Walid says:

    Dear admin l have corona GT-2570Y
    Its give E5 what this means

  28. samy says:

    Hi, I have a mitsubishi heater i want it to operate 24 hrs instead of switching off every 3 hrs

  29. ahmad says:

    hi.. thank you for helping us
    do you have a Mitsubishi user manual for mitsubishi kd-s32c
    thanks again

  30. admin says:

    No sorry, i’ve never heard of that model.

  31. admin says:

    HH Error Codes are generic factory based codes which are not generally published in the public domain. Usually they require investigation by service agents or the manufacturer themselves. As such, I suspect they relate to component, igniter or PCB Failure but I would be guessing. So if you have the Electronics knowledge, I would start your investigations with these components. Unless anybody else has any knowledge of these elusive HH codes?.

  32. Maria Monaghan says:

    I have a Tosai Inverter heater SRE 4600 that has stopped working. The read-out says H HH. It also will not turn off. The on button continuously flashes red. The only way I can turn it off is by removing the electic power plug. Can anyone help ???

  33. admin says:

    Maria Flashing HHH = Incomplete combustion after three failed attempts. Suggests that the heater is not burning properly which could be anything from too little air to not enough fuel – but either way the burner is not running efficiently or cleanly. I would perhaps start by cleaning the fuel filter and air intake / filter and then progress to a service as detailed within this blog, making sure that the combustion chamber is cleaned. However it seems like you also have some kind of Electrical issue, which unless you know your way around a printed circuit board is out of the scope of the DIY nature of this blog.

    Which came first, the Electrical Shut down problem or the Combustion issue?.

  34. Hassan says:

    Thank you for the information a bout hh fault ,i would like to know where to start ,im an electrecian and i have knowledge how to invetigate faulted comonents ,pls. Give me some name of componets to start with i have this fault hh i searched everything out of the pcb.but nothing so i need help if you pls .thanx

  35. Hassan says:

    I have GT 324Y. Whenever I power it on, it gives three beeps and doesn’t turn on. Please help.

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